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Latin & Caribbean Grocery Stores Demystified

St. Martin's Press

Latin Culture & Cooking

Latin and Caribbean cuisines are a sensational melding of tropical tastes with multicultural influences. A sizzling fiesta of hot, sweet, tangy, and spicy flavors dancing to a samba of salsas, citrus mojos, and aromatic herb-infused sauces tempered with creamy coconut, tart tamarind, and cooling fruits. The purpose of this book is to give anyone who wants to try cooking Latin food a blueprint to navigating the more than 60,000 Latin markets in America. With this guide in hand, you will be able to identify and use a variety of exciting ingredients. To locate your nearest Latin market, scan the Yellow Pages of your local phone book. Retailers may be listed under Grocers or Food, but smaller mom-and-pop places may not be listed at all. Customers find them by word of mouth. In large metropolitan areas, Latin markets may be listed in city guides. If you're interested in a particular country's cuisine, staff at that country's consulate may give you some leads as to where locals shop. When you visit a Latin restaurant, ask where you can find the food, or who supplies it — some may be right next to or very near a market. Many Latin basics are available by mail order and on the Web, but you miss the atmosphere, home-cooked snacks, and the experience of meeting people who will be glad to help you, and share their culture and recipe tips.

Should you be traveling to Mexico, South America, or the Caribbean, pack this book and use it to demystify the markets and menus you will encounter. The Latin groceries in the United States carry just about everything you will encounter abroad (although a market in Mexico City, Rio de Janeiro, or San Juan will have fresher tropical produce). You'll find the same baked goods, snacks, and sweets described in the ensuing pages. Let this book be your passport to culinary culture.

Two-thirds of all the foods we eat have their origin in pre-Columbian America. The Mayas, Aztecs, and Incas had highly developed agricultural systems long before Columbus arrived on the scene with the conquistadors hot on his heels.

It is hard to imagine European cooking without potatoes, tomatoes, corn, beans, peppers, chocolate, or vanilla — all gifts brought from the New World. On the other hand, it's hard to conceive of Latin American cuisine without the wheat, rice, beef, pork, cheese, citrus, grapes, olives, and almonds brought from the Old World. This cross-cultural exchange of foodstuffs and cooking methods created the present day larder found throughout Latin America and forever changed how and what we eat.

Creole, criollo, and mestizo all refer to cuisines that arose from the mingling of Indian and European ingredients in the cooking pot (in addition to those born of both cultures). African slaves brought by the Europeans further stirred up the pot and influenced Latin culture. The 19th century brought an influx of Chinese and Japanese immigrants along with their culinary traditions, expanding the pantry of South America and forming hybrid dishes blending Asian and Latin flavors.

While there is a shared Spanish or Portuguese heritage, each Latin country developed its own distinct dishes based on the evolution of Old and New World ingredients and cooking styles. Naturally, there is much overlapping and borrowing of foods and popular preparations, creating a rich and diverse unity. What binds this culinary tapestry together is the use of similar ingredients. These staples — from rice and beans to chilies and tomatoes — are all found in an enormous region stretching from the Mexican border to northern Patagonia and the far-flung islands of Cuba and Puerto Rico.

The staples in part 1 of this book, Latin Basics, form the foundation of Latin American cooking. The ingredients important to a specific Latin cuisine are discussed in later chapters. In these sections the contents of Mexican, Central American, Colombian, and Venezuelan markets will be investigated as well as what is stocked in Peruvian, Chilean, Argentine, and Brazilian grocery stores. Cuban and Puerto Rican culinary traditions are also mentioned, although they are geographically part of the Caribbean. Because these islands were once Spanish colonies, they retain more of an Iberian influence than their neighbors colonized by the French, British, Dutch, and Danish. Cuba had particularly close ties with Spain, and Spanish immigration to the island continued up until the late fifties, stopping only with the revolution. Caribbean cultural and culinary currents are also found in the second part of this book, along with Afro-Caribbean foods and traditions.

Latin staples can be found in the Hispanic goods aisle of your nearest supermarket. Most carry flour and corn tortillas, Latin cheeses, spices, chilies, chorizo sausages, bacalao (salt cod), beans and rice, root vegetables, plantains, and tropical fruits. Caribbean markets are another resource for many Latin basics and tropical produce. If you live in a city with a large Latino community, such as Los Angeles, Chicago, New York, Boston, Houston, or Miami, there are whole neighborhoods with Latin American markets. You'll find butchers, bakeries, fish markets, and botanicas — small shops selling herbs, scented oils, and other paraphernalia used in the Santeria religion. Every corner bodega is stocked with everyday essentials like milk and bread, as well as Latin basics from rice and beans to spicy sauces and sausages, with Goya as the reigning brand.

Stocking Up on Latin Basics

To start your Latin pantry, you'll want rice, both long grain for everyday use and short grain for soups and paella, and several types of beans, dried or in cans. Get some yuca and other starchy roots, plantains, and cornmeal for tamales and arepas — and, if you are ambitious, to make corn tortillas. Select several types of chilies, both mild and hot, and fresh, dried, canned, pickled, and powdered. Choose a variety of fresh vegetables, including avocados, bell peppers, calabaza pumpkin-squash, corn, onions, and tomatoes. Pick whatever tropical fruits are in season and round out the selection with some frozen exotic fruit pulps — these are handy for shakes, juices, and sauces. Essential seasonings would be fresh cilantro, black pepper, garlic, cinnamon, cumin, and fresh or dried oregano. Add some dried corn husks if you plan to make tamales, queso blanco for an all-purpose fresh cheese, and both soft chorizo for cooking and hard, cured sausages for slicing as an appetizer or in sandwiches. Chocolate, caramel, and preserved fruit pastes come in handy as sweet endings to a Latin meal.

The essential ingredients needed to cook Latin cuisine follow. Rather than repeat staples such as beans and corn in each country-specific market, they are discussed here. Stock your pantry with a selection from the following chapters and you will have the means to whip up any number of dishes, from a Mexican sopa seca (dry soup) and Brazilian black-eyed pea fritters to Venezuelan arepas and Argentine beef stew cooked in a pumpkin.

Buen provecho!

Starches

Although many different starches are used in Latin American food, rice and beans are undoubtedly the foundation of the cuisine. Beans have always been an important part of the Latin diet, and many, such as the Lima, pinto, kidney, and black bean are native to the region. Beans are nourishing, packed with essential proteins, and economical. Partnered with rice, beans make a healthy, filling, and delicious meal. Rice has been a Latin American staple only since the 17th century, introduced by the Spanish colonists. Mounds of plain rice became the perfect foil for richly spiced beans, a perfect marriage of Old and New World foods.

Rice

Rice is deeply ingrained in Latin culture, and cooks pride themselves on their ability to turn out a perfect pot of rice. To do so is considered a measure of one's culinary skills — the end result should be tender rice with every grain separate.

While all rice comes from a common Asian species, Oryza sativa, it is divided into two main groups, indica and japonica. There is green, red, and yellow rice, tinted and flavored with freshly chopped herbs, tomato sauce, or saffron.

In Latin kitchens, rice is usually cooked in a caldera, a heavy cast iron or aluminum pot with a round bottom and straight sides. After years of loving use, it darkens, like a well-seasoned wok. Rice is mainly cooked by the absorption method with a little salt and oil added. Rice is added to chicken soup or served as sopa seca (dry soup), usually right after a wet soup. Plain rice is dished up with picadillo (ground beef sauce), stews, fried fish, grilled or roasted meats, shredded beef, shrimp in creole sauce, boiled crabs, and of course, beans. In Cuba, rice is also cooked in lots of boiling water until al dente; drained; tossed with butter, melted lard, or oil; then put back in the pot and steamed over very low heat for 15 to 20 minutes. This ensures that the coveted thick, slightly crisped, chewy crust, called a raspa, will form on the bottom. In Puerto Rico this rice crust is called a pegao and is equally relished. If steamed rice (with or without a crust) is not being served right away, cover it with a clean cotton dishcloth and then put the lid on. This will prevent condensed moisture from turning the rice mushy. The rice will stay hot for about 20 minutes.

After buying rice, transfer it from the bag into clean jars or airtight containers. Store in a cool, dry place and it will keep for a long time. Add a dried chili pepper to prevent weevil infestation. Refrigerate leftover cooked rice in a well-sealed container as it will harden if exposed to cold. Reheat cold rice with a few spoonfuls of water in a microwave or covered pot over low heat. The following are the types of rice found in Latin markets, listed from most popular to lesser used.

LONG-GRAIN RICE

Long-grain rice is the rice of choice in Latin America. Long-grain rices are of the indica type and grow well in hot, dry climates. Kernels are about five times as long as they are wide. Long-grain rice is the least starchy of all rice and cooks up dry and fluffy with separate grains. It is the best type for steamed rice, pilafs, and fried rice dishes.

There are many brands and varieties to choose from, including Thai jasmine, Texas jasmati (less fragrant), basmati, Calmati, Texmati, and Carolina gold types. Some brands to look for are Goya Baby Elephant Thai jasmine in 20-pound bags and Molinera, Canilla, Iberia, Mahatama, Conchita, and Riceland in smaller packages.

BASMATI RICE

Basmati is an aromatic long-grain rice of the indica variety with very slender, pointy-shaped grains. It has translucent, milky-white grains, a silky texture, and buttery, nutlike taste. It expands greatly, especially lengthwise, as it cooks, creating distinct, dry, fluffy grains. Calmati is a basmati-type of rice grown in the Sacramento valley of California. The grains are not as long or aromatic as the Indian-grown type. It is a cross between brown rice and basmati and is sold polished (white) or unmilled (brown). Texmati and Kasmati are Texas-grown varieties of basmati, also not as fragrant.

Basmati rice complements any Latin dish and is excellent for rice-based salads. The brands from India have to be rinsed several times and checked for grit and small particles of stone. It is best to soak basmati in cold water about half an hour before cooking. This helps the long, fragile grains absorb a little water and relax slightly for even cooking. Basmati grown in the United States is sold in plastic bags or screw-cap containers while Indian brands are usually in burlap, jute, or stiff plastic bags. A few brands are packaged in small boxes. Some to look for are Rice Select, Goya (grown in India), Lundburg, Creole Rose (grown in Louisiana, this brand has a popcorn aroma), and Cache River from Arkansas. A recipe for basmati and coconut rice is here.

MEDIUM-GRAIN RICE

Medium-grain is another all-purpose rice. Kernels are shorter and wider than long-grain varieties and can be of either indica or japonica origin. Medium-grain indica is the favorite rice of Mexico. Some Spanish paella rices are medium-grain, others are pearl-shaped. If the rice is not long or very stubby and almost round, then it is medium-grain. Medium-grain rice is good as an everyday table rice, cooking up soft with a slightly sticky texture (especially those of japonica strain). It is good in soups or sopa seca. All supermarkets, Latin or otherwise, carry medium-grain rice.

SHORT-GRAIN RICE

The plump, little kernels of short-grain rice are less than twice as long as they are wide and are often called pearl or pudding rice. Shortgrain rice is of the japonica strain (think sushi rice) — the type grown throughout Latin America.

The best-known variety and most popular in Latin cuisine is the Valencia type, originally from the Valencia region of Spain. Most Latin markets (and regular supermarkets) stock California-grown Valencia pearl rice. This rice is stubby, almost round, and very absorbent. Pearl rice is usually cooked in broth or a flavor base called sofrito. It is used to make paella and many Spanish-influenced dishes such as arroz con pollo (rice with chicken), clam and green rice soup, and sweet puddings with caramel toppings. Plain steamed Valencia pearl rice is slightly sticky and forms clumps of tender grains that cling together and have a shiny texture. It makes very creamy risotto and rice pudding. Italian Arborio is also ideal for these types of dishes. Some brands are Sello Rojo pearl rice, Calusa, Molinera, Diana, Goya Valencia, Dacsa, and Conchita. See here for a recipe for arroz con pollo.

PARBOILED RICE

Also called converted or instant rice, parboiled rice is long- or medium-grain rice that has been soaked and steamed in its husk before being milled. The steaming process forces the water-soluble vitamins and minerals in the germ and outer layers back into the heart of the rice kernel, so that they are not removed during polishing. Parboiled rice looks glassy and pale yellowish-tan, but turns white when cooked. It rarely sticks and is lighter and more delicately flavored than brown rice. This is the most nutritious white rice, but because the bran layer has been removed, it is not as nutritious as brown rice.

Parboiled rice cooks more quickly than regular rice. To retain the nutrients, do not rinse or drain parboiled rice. Just add water and steam. Avoid "minute" rice that is pre-cooked and dried — it is totally devoid of flavor. Some brands of parboiled rice are Vitarroz extra fancy long-grain rice, Riceland, and Iberia. Also Mahatama extra long-grain gold, and of course, good old Uncle Ben's.

Beans

Beans are an essential part of the Latin diet, and big pots of beans simmer on kitchen stovetops or over charcoal fires everywhere in Latin America. The earthy, almost meaty aroma permeates the air, emanating from homes, restaurants, cafés, and the cauldrons of street vendors.

Beans and legumes such as chickpeas and split peas come in many shapes, sizes, and colors and are, of course, dried versions of the tender seeds from various pole beans and pods. There are black beans, splotched pintos, white beans, red kidney beans, canary beans, Limas, pink beans, habas (fava beans), black-eyed peas, pigeon peas, chickpeas, and lentils. Each one has a unique flavor and texture. Beans are sold by bulk, scooped out of bins in some Latin markets as well as in bags and precooked in cans. When buying dried beans, look for smooth, unshriveled specimens, as old ones will take longer to cook. For the best flavor, start with dried beans. Canned are okay if you doctor them with seasonings.

Beans are an indispensable part of meals — with rice, in stews and soups, or baked with pork. It's not surprising that the national dishes of many Latin countries include beans. Brazil's is feijoãda completa, black beans cooked with mixed meats. In Colombia, it is the bandeja paisa platter, a plate of rice, red beans, sweet plantains, steak, pork rind, an egg, and avocado slices. In Venezuela, black beans are called "caviar criollo" and are served mashed with arepas (corn cakes). In Mexico, refried beans are rolled up in burritos, tucked into tacos, and smeared on tostados and piled with shredded meat, lettuce, and grated cheese. It should be noted that refried beans are not actually fried twice. In Spanish the prefix "re" emphasizes the meaning of something, such as a food will be really good (retebien), so refrito means well-fried, rather than re-fried. Of course leftover refried beans can be re-fried! Beans begin the day, paired with eggs; are eaten with the main course of the mid-day meal, and end the day as a light supper.

Cooks throughout the Latin world debate the proper way to cook beans. Traditionalists soak the beans overnight (8 to 10 hours), then cook them. This is the most effective method for reducing the notorious flatulence caused by eating beans. Others insist on starting off with unsoaked beans in cold water and add an hour to the total cooking time. Yet others bring the beans to a boil, boil 5 minutes, turn off the heat, cover the pot and let the beans soak for one hour, then proceed.

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Excerpted from Latin & Caribbean Grocery Stores Demystified by Linda Bladholm. Copyright © 2001 Linda Bladholm. Excerpted by permission of St. Martin's Press.
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