A Season with the Witch: The Magic and Mayhem of Halloween in Salem, Massachusetts

by J. W. Ocker

Overview

Edgar Award-winning travel writer spends an autumn living in one of America's spookiest tourist destinations: Salem, Massachusetts

Salem, Massachusetts, may be the strangest city on the planet. A single event in its 400 years of history—the Salem Witch Trials of 1692—transformed it into the Capital of Creepy in America. But Salem is a seasonal town—and its season happens to be Halloween. Every October, this small city of 40,000 swells to close to half a million as witches, goblins, ghouls, and ghosts (and their admirers) descend on Essex Street. For the fall of 2015, occult enthusiast and Edgar Award–winning writer J.W. Ocker moved his family of four to downtown Salem to experience firsthand a season with the witch, visiting all of its historical sites and macabre attractions. In between, he interviews its leaders and citizens, its entrepreneurs and visitors, its street performers and Wiccans, its psychics and critics, creating a picture of this unique place and the people who revel in, or merely weather, its witchiness.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781581573398
Publisher:	Countryman Press, The
Publication date:	10/04/2016
Pages:	352
Sales rank:	486,624
Product dimensions:	5.90(w) x 8.90(h) x 1.10(d)

About the Author

J. W. Ocker is the Edgar Award-winning author of Poe-Land. He runs the website Odd Things I’ve Seen, where he chronicles his visits to various oddities of culture, art, and history. His writing has been featured in Rue Morgue magazine, CNN.com, American Exorcist: Critical Essays on William Peter Blatty, and Studies in Australian Weird Fiction. Ocker lives in Nashua, NH.

Table of Contents

Introduction: Salem for a Spell ix

1 Welcome to Witch City 1

2 On a Witch Hunt 9

3 Witch Way to the Gallows 30

4 Wax Witches 50

5 The Art of Selling Salem 70

6 Witches vs. Pirates 89

7 Grave Magistrates and Judges Not 110

8 A Walk on the Weird Side 128

9 Fictitious Witches 144

10 The Real Witches of Essex County 169

11 More than Witches to Fear in Salem 203

12 That's Hawthorne, with a "W," as in "Witch" 231

13 The "City" in Witch City 251

14 Witch Citizens 268

15 H-Day 293

Epilogue: Salem After the Spell 307

Acknowledgments 317

Index 319

Editorial Reviews

★ 08/29/2016
This lively chronicle—part travel guide, part history lesson—charts the peculiar relationship between Haunted Happenings, the month-long Halloween celebration held annually in Salem, Mass., and the town’s historic legacy as the site where 20 people were executed during the infamous witch trials of 1692. As depicted by Ocker (Poe-Land), Salem’s embrace of what was once its stigma is a case of civics tempered by commercialism. Plaques and monuments around town call attention to the events of the early 1690s, but many historic sites have been built over—the site of the executions, for example, is now behind a Walgreens—and visitors are instead directed to self-styled museums that offer tours, wax dioramas, and historical reenactments. In the book’s most fascinating chapter, Ocker notes with irony that the Peabody Essex Museum, which possesses the only true artifacts from the trials, is endowed as an art museum and distances itself from the city’s branding for its October festivities. Ocker moves easily among the archivists, historians, and performers he interviews, and he describes the carnival atmosphere that descends upon “Witch City” with enthusiasm and vividness. 25 b&w photos. (Oct.)

Publishers Weekly

"What better place to celebrate Halloween than Salem, Massachusetts? Festivities begin with a parade on October 1 and end with Halloween parties and costumed celebrations on October 31. In between, Ocker, a travel writer with an Edgar Award, and family stay the entire month, exploring Salem’s many attractions. Although the witch trials in 1692 only lasted for nine months, Salem has been branded “Witch City,” overshadowing its maritime history. Ocker samples everything: cemeteries, museums, gift shops, performances, wax museums, and more. He talks to street performers and street preachers as he tries to understand the appeals of the city. He interviews curators, haunters, costumed tour guides, a policeman, the mayor, and cemetery caretakers. Ocker devotes whole chapters to real witches, Nathaniel Hawthorne, and TV shows and movies set in Salem. His comic asides lighten the details of haunted houses, hangings, and hysteria without disrespecting the history. The result is a fresh, fun glimpse of a town that has come to grips with its sordid history and prospered. Armchair travelers will enjoy the trip."

Booklist

09/01/2016
Travel writer Ocker (Poe-land) takes readers along with him and his family on an enjoyable trip to Salem, MA, during the month of October. The town is one of the largest Halloween-themed tourist spots, and the author examines how the holiday connects with its solemn past. Both the witch trials of 1692–93 and the life of 19th-century author Nathaniel Hawthorne, who was born in Salem, are woven through the narrative, giving it a solid historical starting point from which to explore the area's modern take on witches and Halloween. The result is an entertaining and historical guide to the varied sites of Salem, with Ocker interviewing everyone from the mayor to local archivists to men in scary costumes, covering burial sites of witch trial judges, and perhaps the most awesome Halloween street party ever described in print, with Ocker's good humor and touch of sarcasm marking his readable style. VERDICT A fun read for anyone who enjoys Bill Bryson-style travel writing, this entry will make readers want to visit Salem.—Sara Miller Rohan, Archive Librarian, Atlanta

Library Journal