10/16/2017
Downie (A Passion for Paris) blends exhaustive research and personal experience in this delightful history of one of the culinary capitals of the world. The acclaimed food and travel writer packs in 92 breezy essays that cover topics ranging from pre-Christian times up through the nouvelle cuisine of the 1970s and the alleged decline of present-day French cuisine. Downie expands on dozens of topics, including the French fascination with foie gras, the Sweeney Todd legend (which was based on real events in Paris “in which the barber and the meat pie maker next door carry on a gruesome trade”), and the origins of the country’s love for food. He shares primary documents such as the menu at Queen Catarina’s 1549 coronation and the original 1691 crème brûlée recipe, and explores the influences of a wide and entertaining array of historical figures including the gluttonous Louis XIV, the prerevolutionary potato promoter Parmentier, and medieval cookbook author Taillevent. Most impressively, Downie relishes in debunking myths about French culinary exceptionalism (Curnonsky, one of Paris’s best-known gastronomists in the early 20th century, “only got into the gastro-journalism racket after a taste-bud-stimulating voyage to China”) while unabashedly proclaiming his adoration for French culture and history in and out of the kitchen. Readers don’t have to be foodies to get the flavor of the French character in this delightful, thoroughly researched culinary history. Photos. (Sept.)
"Skillfully combines culinary history with reports from some of the city's most tasteful arrondissements, [Downie] adopts the conceit of a historian's walking tour, conflating the past with the present in gorgeous style" —The New York Times Book Review
“A joyous romp through time . . . The streets and tables of Paris will never bethe same and I could not be more grateful.” —Alice Waters
“Truly epic, encompassing history, flavor,and passion. Bravo for a comprehensive look at eating and dining in Paris!” —David Lebovitz, author of My Paris Kitchen and The Sweet Life in Paris
“A delightful treat for your favorite Francophile foodie . . . an enchanting fluffy read with lots of hints and tips for lovers of Paris and French food.” —Epicurious.com
“Downie tells many tales of fascinating episodes in French history. . . . A gastronomic jaunt through the city that tells how Paris distinguished itself as a world capital of eating.” —Eleanor Beardsley, NPR’s Paris Correspondent
“Given the French influence over the way we eat and cook (or aspire to do so), the historical details in Downie’s book are fascinating (who knew that Charlemagne loved arugula?), even though it’s unlikely that you’ll be motivated to prepare the recipe of the famous 14th century chefTaillevent for roast peacock or swan.” —AimeeLee Ball, Martha Stewart.com
"Downie blends exhaustive research and personal experience in this delightful history of one of the culinary capitals of the world...Readers don’t have to be foodies to get the flavor of the French character in this delightful, thoroughly researched culinary history." —Publishers Weekly
“A great companion for any French adventurer as well as historians and food buffs” —Library Journal
"A zesty, entertaining romp through the landscape of French food." —Kirkus
“In recent years David Downie has become the go-to-guy for all matters Parisienne. In A Taste of Paris he combines his love of history, his affection for his adopted city, and his passion for Frenchgastronomy. Anyone who loves Paris (who doesn't?) and adores French cooking (who can resist it?) will cherish this authoritative book.” —Paula Wolfert
"A must for anyone going to Paris and anyone with an interest in food and history." —Linda Pelaccio, Heritage Radio Network's A Taste of the Past
“With humor and wit, Downie delves into the city’s culinary history, sharing fascinating anecdotes... A Taste of Paris is written in a fun, lively style, bringing to life thousands of years of history, while also elaborating on contemporary culinary trends… an indispensable guide to the past, present, and future in a city that’s often deemed a global food capital.” —Bonjour Paris
08/01/2017
Downie, an expat from San Francisco living in Europe and author of several travel and food books (Paris, Paris; A Passion for Paris), tells the story of France through the country's relationship with food, while also providing a contemporary guide to the world of Parisian culinary establishments. The table of contents is written in the form of a menu and the author traces his adopted city's food history from 53 BCE. He regales readers with his adventures with food and drink from the day he first arrived in Paris and addresses all aspects of French cuisine, from seeds to planting to processing to serving. We learn how food reflected the culture and the eating habits of such notables as Julius Caesar, Charlemagne, Madame de Pompadour, Voltaire, Zola, Benjamin Franklin, and most of the French royalty. Downie provides historical and current information for foodies and fashionistas in Paris through informative and witty vignettes, accompanied with illustrations of woodcuts and postcards. VERDICT A great companion for any French adventurer as well as historians and food buffs.—Melinda Stivers Leach, Wondervu, CO
2017-06-12
A Francophile takes a spirited jaunt through French history, focused on food.A resident of Paris since 1986, Downie (A Passion for Paris: Romanticism and Romance in the City of Light, 2015, etc.), whose enthusiasm for food and travel has resulted in more than a dozen books, offers a loving, celebratory, and irreverent look at French eating habits, from ancient times to the present. Short, pithy chapters brim with quirky details: frog legs, so quintessentially French, were "beloved of the centurions and gourmets of antiquity"; mustard, too, was a Roman favorite. Not until the 17th century did dining rooms exist in Parisian residences, and knives and forks came late to the French table. In the court of Louis XIV, diners ate "quickly and greedily," licking their fingers with pleasure. Meals were abundant: "everyone but the poorest devoured unimaginable quantities of meat," including veal, mutton, beef, and various species of bird, along with eel and fish. In the 1700s, French cuisine became "the unofficial state religion," and "nouvelle cuisine" was invented, with "theorists, chemists, chefs, philosophers," and assorted other experts engaged in parsing the meaning of taste "and the differences between gluttons, gourmets, gastronomes, and other varieties of eaters." The first restaurants appeared in the mid-1700s; by 1789, there were about 50, which burgeoned to 3,000 by 1814. Downie recounts the culinary influence of Grimod de la Reynière and his more famous contemporary Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, author of many food-related aphorisms. "The destiny of nations," he wrote, "depends on the way they feed themselves." The author also offers capsule reviews—not always favorable—of some of Paris' 10,000 restaurants. He is not a fan of pretension, noise, corporate ownership, stratospheric prices, or what he calls "karaoke cuisine," characterized by "industrial sauce," microwaved entrees, "multiple courses for under $20," and "pink and familiar decor." His disdain is especially harsh regarding "super-bobo" eateries with "could-be-anywhere cooking." A zesty, entertaining romp through the landscape of French food.
