Table of Contents
Introduction xiii
The Way We Eat Now
Brooklyn Is Everywhere, From Bon Appétit John Birdsall 2
On Chicken Tenders, From Guernica Helen Rosner 8
In Praise of Ugly Food, From SeriousEats.com Kat Kinsman 13
How to Dupe a Moderately Ok Food Critic, From East Bay Express Luke Tsai 18
Three-Ring Meal: The Grasping Novelty of Modern Dining, From Eighteen Bridges Jennifer Cockrall-King 21
Sorry, Blue Apron, the Joys of Cooking Can't Fit in a Box, From The New Republic By Corby Kummer 26
Quitting Season, From Edible Baja Arizona Debbie Weingarten 31
Down the Hatch
The True Story of Good Coffee, From TheAwl.com Matt Buchanan 40
Getting Drunk on Tea Infusions with Montreal's Underground Connoisseurs, From Vice Magazine Rowan Jacobsen 44
The Great Bourbon Taste Test, From Garden & Gun Wells Tower 48
The Case for Bad Coffee, From SeriousEats.com Keith Pandolfi 55
Blending In, From Food & Wine Steve Hoffman 60
Cooking the Books
The Servant Problem, From The Jemima Code Toni Tipton-Martin 66
Chained to the Stove: What It's Really Like to Write a Cookbook, From SeriousEats.com Jessica Battilana 71
The Epiphany That Turned Me into a Good Baker, From the Washington Post Kathy Gunst 76
Zahav vs. The Food Lab, From Food52.com Phyllis Grant 82
What It's Like to Cook With Dominque Crenn, From Food & Wine Daniel Duane 86
Pile of Goop, From the Charlotte Observer Kathleen Purvis 90
The Family Table
Moving Kitchen, From CrumbsontheTable.co.uk Laura Donohue 96
The Meaning of Mangoes, From Lucky Peach Dianne Jacob 99
The Millionaire's Turkey: A Father-Daughter Story, From SeriousEats.com Betsy Andrews 103
Goodnight, Mrs. Calabash, From Gravy Besha Rodell 107
Mom's Meatballs, From the Miami Herald Victoria Pesce Elliott 114
Kummerspecks, From FoodForTheThoughtless.com Michael Procopio 119
Foodways
Butchering London, From Roads & Kingdoms Chris Newens 126
Charred and Feathered, From Audubon Brian Kevin 132
Ya-Ka-Mein: Old Sober, From Edible New Orleans L. Kasimu Harris 141
Hot Sauce in Her Bag, From Eater.com Mikki Kendall 146
Glori-fried and Glori-fied, From Gravy Alice Randall 152
Everyday Sacred: A Personal Path to Gumbo, From SeriousEats.com Pableaux Johnson 158
Dining around
The American Diner at Age 143, From Pacific Standard Max Ufberg 166
Penn Station's Underground Raw Bar, From Edible Manhattan Tove Danovich 170
Table for One, From Gastronomica James Nolan 175
Dinner and Deception, From the New York Times Edward Frame 181
The Hunger Games, From Travel & Leisure Howie Kahn 187
Eating and Drinking in Mexico City: A Diary, From the Washingtonian Todd Kliman 193
Someone's in the Kitchen
Bo Bech Discovers the Bounty of Virginia, From Travel & Leisure Jason Tesauro 210
Smoke Signals, From Bon Appétit Julia Kramer 219
Why Serious Bakers Have Mother Issues, From SeriousEats.com Andrea Strong 227
Cooks Are Different, From Tin House Michael Ruhlman 233
Rites of the Caquelon, From Ski Magazine Tim Neville 240
The ChefWho Saved My Life, From GQ Brett Martin 249
Life, On a Plate
Sonoko Dreams of Soba, From Saveur Francis Lam 264
So Long, Menus; Hello, Pots and Pans, From the New York Times Pete Wells 271
Dinner Party Diaries, From Saveur Andrew Sean Greer 276
Churnin', From HungryPassport.com Carol Penn-Romine 280
The Breakfast Club, From Lucky Peach Rachel Levin 286
Filter Fish, From The New Yorker Oliver Sacks 290
Recipe Index 293
Permissions Acknowledgments 295
About the Editor 299
