Read an Excerpt
PEEKAMOOSE
It's all free of charge on a first-come, first-serve basis, and the sites are large, flat, shady, and private.
RATINGS
Beauty: 4 stars
Privacy: 3 stars
Quiet: 2 stars
Cleanliness: 2 stars
Security: 1 star
Spaciousness: 4 stars
KEY INFORMATION
Address: CR 42, Denning, NY 12725
Operated by: New York State Department of Environmental Conservation
Contact: 845-240-6788; www.dec.ny.gov/lands/75346.html
Open: Year-round
Sites: About 25
Site Amenities: Fire ring
Assignment: Choose from available sites; no reservations
Registration: Not required
Facilities: Portable toilets June-September
Parking: At designated lots
Fee: Free
Elevation: 1,096'
Restrictions: Pets: Dogs on leash with proof of currently valid rabies vaccination Fires: In fire rings only Alcohol: At site Vehicles: None permitted; all sites are walk-in Other: Quiet hours 10 p.m.-7 a.m. (not enforced) Reservations: None taken, but call ahead if planning to stay more than 3 nights.
At the southern end of the Catskills, in the Sundown Wild Forest, lies the Peekamoose Valley, where three 2,000-foot peaks—Samson, Van Wyck, and Peekamoose Mountains—funnel water into Rondout Creek through a series of picturesque waterfalls. In the midst of all of this is a campground that, while administered by the state Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC), is decidedly different from any of the Catskills’ other offerings. If you’re looking for a place to pitch your tent that’s somewhere between backcountry camping and primitive but is an established property such as Devil’s Tombstone (see page 25), then you’ll find this is your sweet spot (or 25 sweet spots, to be more exact).
The campground is stretched out over a mile and is made up of three separate fields, each containing six to nine walk-in sites. (There’s also a trailer field that requires permits; contact the DEC for more information on that area.) There’s no running water, no trash pickup, no picnic tables, and only seasonal porta-potties at the parking lots. But it’s all free of charge on a first-come, first-serve basis, and the sites are large, flat, shady, and private. From nearly every corner of the campground, you can hear the sound of trickling Rondout Creek.
Each site is limited to nine people and three tents. Part of the fun is exploring the winding paths to discover the best available spot for you. Be careful to select a site with a designated camping sign, as the DEC occasionally rotates locations to spread out the impact of campers. Admittedly, some of the former sites can be very tempting. And don’t let the name “field” fool you; only a few sites are actually in fields. Most are nicely wooded options with ample vegetation.
As you approach from the northeast along Peekamoose Road/CR 42, the first area after the trailer field is the Upper Field with its two parking lots. Closest to the east- ern lot, sites 1 and 2 sit across from the trailer field along a dry creek bed (or at least it’s been dry when we have visited). Sites 3 and 5 are closer to the road, but are nicely situated among spruce trees on the opposite side of the field’s well-worn main trail. Numbers 4 and 8 are even closer to the trail, while 6 and 7 are tucked away on little spurs near the western parking lot.
Farther along Peekamoose Road, toward Sundown, the Middle Field features six sites and one small parking lot. While sites 1 and 2 (set off to the right of the lot) are both close to the creek, they are also somewhat close to the road. Still, they’re a better choice than site 3, which is within spitting distance of the parking lot. We prefer sites 4 and 5 for their privacy and their soft, sandy perches next to the creek (and a nice little swimming hole), along with site 6 for its grassy seclusion near an open field. As in other parts of the campground, small, dry creek beds (some used as default trails) crisscross near most of the sites, so be wary during periods of heavy rain.
The Lower Field, not much farther down the road, houses nine sites. The sites are nicely spread and, thanks to their distance from the large parking lot and their location across an old bridge, they tend to be the quietest choices. From the lot, walk down a hill, cross the bridge to the information kiosk, and you will find sites 1–6 to the right and sites 7–9 to the left. For the most privacy, check out site 1. About a quarter-mile removed from the rest of the sites past an old stone wall, it’s remote and woodsy enough for the greatest of recluses. Site 3 is not far from the edge of the creek. Numbers 2, 4, 5 (the largest), and 6 are all scattered along the edge of a tall grass field bordering a steep hill thick with fir trees that cast shade upon the sites. Number 7 sits just past the information kiosk, while 8 and 9 (always good choices) are closer to the creek and are often home to some interesting camper-created art made with stones worn smooth by the water.
Because there are no reservations, you could show up and find the campground already full. On the plus side, impromptu getaways can be rewarded with free streamside campsites and absolutely no paperwork. Still, summer weekends fill up fast, so don’t arrive after dark on a Friday evening and expect luck to be on your side. Local DEC rangers do occasionally patrol, but rules, especially quiet hours, are treated differently by all. Be wary of rowdy parties, especially on holiday week- ends. Previous tenants may leave presents for you, ranging from trash bags to well-stacked stone cairns. Just because there’s no staff on-site, be sure to leave Peekamoose as you would like to find it.
In the surrounding Peekamoose Valley, you’ll find a stunning swimming hole, lots of accessible waterfalls, and a variety of hiking options. Across the road from the upper field’s eastern lot, a large boulder marks the trailhead to Bangle Hill and Vernooy Kill Falls, and just east along Peekamoose Road is the Peekamoose–Table Trail, a strenuous route that rewards the industrious hiker with great views. For an easier route to views, drive to the nearby town of Denning for a 1.2-mile hike to Red Hill Fire Tower. After all that climbing and sweating, you’ll want to cool off with a trip to the famous Blue Hole, a legendary swimming hole just 2 miles east along Peekamoose Road. It’s chilly even in the peak of summer, but don’t let that stop you from taking a memorable leap into the crystal-clear water.
GETTING THERE
From I-87 (New York State Thruway), take Exit 19, New York 28/Kingston/Rhinecliff Bridge. At the traffic circle, take the first exit and follow NY 28 West 16 miles. Take a slight left onto NY 28A/New York City Road for 3 miles. Make a slight right onto CR 42 West/West Shokan–Peekamoose–Sundown Road, and drive 11 miles to the Upper Field entrance, on the right.
GPS COORDINATES
N41° 54.567'
W74° 27.217'