But First, Champagne: A Modern Guide to the World's Favorite Wine

by David White, John Trinidad (Photographer), Ray Isle (Foreword by)

Overview

“Those that pick up But First, Champagne . . . will be richly rewarded . . . White never loses sight of what makes the region a truly unique place, perhaps the only place that could give birth to the world's most magical wine.” —Tasting Panel

Knowledgeable wine enthusiasts have always revered Champagne. The region and its wines are associated with prestige and luxury, of course, but historically, most consumers kept champagne way back on the high shelf, reserving it for post–bowl game blowouts, send-offs, and wedding toasts.

Over the past decade, however, an increasing number of wine enthusiasts have discovered the joys of grower champagne—wines made by the farmers who grow the grapes. Today, Champagne is in the midst of a renaissance. And thanks to a few key wine importers and the farm-to-table movement, consumers everywhere are finally paying attention.

In But First, Champagne, David White details Champagne’s history along with that of its wines, explains how and why the market is changing, and profiles the region’s leading producers. These profiles will bring a new perspective to the Champagne that is home to dozens of engaging, inspiring, authentic winegrowers who today produce fantastic and affordable products.

This book is essential reading for wine enthusiasts, adventurous drinkers, and foodies. With a comprehensive yet accessible overview of the region, its history, and its leading producers, But First, Champagne will demystify Champagne for all.

From the foreword:
"Smart, entertaining, and valuable . . . one of those rare wine books that should appeal to people just getting into Champagne and longtime Champagne obsessives." —Ray Isle, Executive Wine Editor, Food & Wine

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781510772380
Publisher:	Skyhorse
Publication date:	01/03/2023
Pages:	304
Product dimensions:	7.00(w) x 9.00(h) x 0.80(d)

About the Author

David White is one of the world’s leading wine writers and and a contributor to Grape Collective. He is the founder and editor of Terroirist.com, one of the world’s most popular wine blogs, for which he’s been awarded both Best New Wine Blog and Best Overall Wine Blog. His writing has been published in the World of Fine Wine, The New York Times, the Los Angeles Times, the Washington Post, and more. White has also served as auction chair of Heart’s Delight, one of the world’s largest charity wine auctions. Learn more about David's work at www.DavidWhite.wine. He resides in Washington, DC.

Ray Isle is executive wine editor of Food & Wine. In addition to overseeing the magazine’s wine department, Ray writes the monthly column Tasting Room and regular feature stories, in addition to directing all spirits and beer coverage.

John Trinidad is an avid photographer, wine enthusiast, and attorney and lives in Napa, California.

Table of Contents

Author's Note viii

Foreword x

Introduction: Searching for Authenticity 4

Part 1 Champagne through the Ages

Chapter 1 On the Trail of the Bubbly 16

The Early Days 18

A Region and a Wine 19

Devastation, Plague, and Endless War 23

The Huguenot Wars 25

What the Sun King Drank 26

Champagne Gets Better 28

Champagne's Many Styles 29

Are Bubbles Bad? 30

A Vinous Rivalry 31

How Champagne is Made 32

Chapter 2 Bubbles Sweep the World 34

Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité 37

The Emperor's Reign 39

A Brief History of Sabrage (With a How-To Guide!) 42

Winemaking Becomes an Industry 43

A Most Violent Year 47

Champagne Charlie Seduces America 48

The Belle Époque 50

Understanding Sweetness Levels 51

Why Are Ships Blessed with Champagne? 52

Les Grandes Marques de Champagne 54

Chapter 3 Joy Wine, and War 56

If it's Profitable, Make More 57

What's in a Wine? 58

Why Does Soil Matter? 60

The Wrath of Grapes 61

War Comes to Champagne 63

The Macabre Dance of War 65

The American Expedition 68

War Ends, Wine Begins Again 69

What's in a Name? 70

Chapter 4 A Changed World 72

Appellation d'Origine Controlée 75

The Grapes of Champagne 76

The Art of Blending 77

Les Années Folles 78

The Party Ends with a Crash 80

A Brief Recovery 81

Booze Beyond the Bubbles 82

What is Terroir? 84

Germany Occupies Champagne 85

The Ring Closes 88

Don't Pop the Cork! 89

Chapter 5 Approaching the Second Millennium 90

The Rebirth of Conspicuous Consumption 91

What is a Prestige Cuvée? 93

As Consumption Grows, Vineyards Decline 94

Booms, Busts, and Bellbottoms 96

Hustle and Flash 97

Forget the Flute and Toss the Coupe 99

Why Do Athletes Celebrate with Champagne? 100

As Economy Sinks, Alternatives Sparkle 101

It's All About the Benjamins 103

Millennium Crash 105

Chapter 6 The Grower Revolution 106

What is "Natural" Wine? 109

The Seeds of a Revolution 110

A Long History of Artisanal Wine 112

How to Buy Champagne 114

America Changes the Global Marketplace 114

Reading a Champagne Label 118

The Terroirist Triumph 120

To Sweeten or Not? 123

A Rising Tide 124

Understanding Organic, Biodynamic, and Sustainable Viticulture 128

Transparency and Disgorgement Dates 130

Future Expansion of Champagne 130

Infinite Discoveries 131

Epilogue 133

Part 2 Digging Deeper in Champagne

Section 1 The Grand Marques 136

Ayala (N.M.) 139

Billecart-Salmon (N.M.) 140

Bollinger (N.M.) 142

Delamotte / Salon (N.M.) 144

Deutz (N.M.) 146

Drappier (N.M.) 148

Duval-Leroy (N.M.) 150

Charles Heidsieck (N.M.) 151

Gosset (N.M.) 152

Henriot (N.M.) 154

Jacquesson (N.M.) 156

Krug (N.M.) 158

Laurent-Perrier (N.M.) 159

Moët & Chandon / Dom Pérignon (N.M.) 161

Perrier-Jouët (N.M.) 163

Philipponnat (N.M.) 165

Piper-Heidsieck (N.M.) 167

Pol Roger (N.M.) 168

Pommery (N.M.) 170

Louis Roederer (N.M.) 171

Ruinart (N.M.) 173

Taittinger (N.M.) 174

Veuve Clicquot (N.M.) 176

Section 2 Montagne de Reims 178

L. Aubry Fils (R.M.) 182

H. Billiot & Fils (R.M.) 184

Francis Boulard (N.M.) 185

Emmanuel Brochet (R.M.) 187

Chartogne-Taillet (R.M.) 188

André Clouet (R.M.) 189

R. H. Coutier (R.C.) 190

Paul Déthune (R.M.) 192

Egly-Ouriet (R.M.) 193

David Léclapart (R.M.) 195

Marie-Noëlle Ledru (R.M.) 196

J. Lassalle (R.M.) 197

A. Margaine (R.M.) 199

Jérôme Prévost [La Closerie] (R.M.) 200

Savart (R.M.) 201

Vilmart & Cie (R.M.) 203

Section 3 Vallée de la Marne 206

Bérèche Et Fils (N.M.) 209

Gaston Chiquet (R.M.) 210

Gatinois (R.M.) 212

René Geoffrey (R.M.) 213

Henri Goutorbe (R.M.) 214

Marc Hébrart (R.M) 216

Lakerte Frères (N.M.) 217

Georges Laval (R.M.) 219

Christophe Mignon (R.M.) 221

Moussé Fils (N.M.) 222

R. Pouillon & Fils (R.M.) 224

Tarlant (R.M.) 226

Section 4 Côte des Blancs 228

Agrapart et Fils (R.M.) 232

Etienne Calsac (R.M.) 234

Claude Cazals (R.M.) 235

Guy Charlemagne (S.R.) 236

Pascal Doquet (S.R.) 237

Veuve Fourny et Fils (N.M.) 239

Pierre Gimonnet et Fils (R.M.) 241

Larmandier-Bernier (R.M.) 242

A. R. Lenoble (N.M.) 244

Jean Milan (N.M.) 246

Pierre Moncuit (R.M.) 248

Pierre Péters (R.M.) 250

Jacques Selosse (R.M.) 251

Ulysse Collin (R.M.) 254

Varnier-Fannière (R.M.) 256

J. L. Vergnon (R.M.) 258

Waris-Hubert (R.M.) 259

Section 5 The Aube 262

Cédric Bouchard / Roses de Jeanne (R.M.) 265

Marie Courtin (R.M.) 267

Dosnon (N.M.) 268

Fleury (N.M.) 270

Bertrand Gautherot [Vouette Et Sorbée] (R.M.) 272

Olivier Horiot 273

Jacques Lassaigne (N.M.) 275

Serge Mathieu (R.M.) 276

Ruppert-Leroy (R.M.) 278

Glossary 280

Selected Bibliography 286

Acknowledgements 288

Index 289

Editorial Reviews

But First, Champagne is the book you didn’t know you needed.” —Fine Wine Concierge

“This is an instant classic, the definitive guide to the sparkling wine of a justly ballyhooed region . . . As with the wines themselves, White's most joyous accomplishment is in the finely etched details.” —StarTribune

“A comprehensive, smartly written guide.” —Food & Wine

“David White shares an enthusiasm for the world’s classiest bubbly in his delightful new book . . . [he] has penned an indispensable guide to the French region and its wine.” —The Washington Post

“Exploring the renaissance of grower Champagne . . . White dives into the Champagne region’s storied history and demystifies the good stuff for wine geeks and newbies alike.” —Chicago Tribune

“You'll be entertained by the lively history and sumptuous photographs.” —The New Criterion

“[We] can confidently recommend this book as a good companion as you sip a bottle of bubbly.” —Vino-Sphere

“Those that pick up But First, Champagne . . . will be richly rewarded . . . White never loses sight of what makes the region a truly unique place, perhaps the only place that could give birth to the world's most magical wine.” —Tasting Panel

“Champagne is one of wine’s most misunderstood topics, not helped by the preponderance of philosophically rusty books on the topic. Enter David White’s sleek effort . . . it covers Champagne 101 deftly and in detail” —PUNCH

“A gratifying read. The book is not pretentious in any sort of way, rather simply admires the historical process that has brought about so many bubbles. At times, one forgets the book is about wine at all (in a good way), while the people, land, and tradition take center stage. But First, Champagne is great if you are looking for a new read or need something handy for reference. Either way, enjoy the rambunctious party that is the story of Champagne.” —Grape Collective

“White’s book brings a new perspective to a magical region that’s witnessed more heartbreak—and lubricated more celebrations—than anywhere else in the world. Packed with beautiful photographs, But First, Champagne is essential reading for wine enthusiasts, adventurous drinkers, and foodies.” —Miami Culinary Tours

“[White] has done a very, very good job of laying out the current state of Champagne in the context of the world wine marketplace. There’s a lot to like in But First, Champagne, not the least of which is the fact that both newbies and jaded connoisseurs alike can find ample merit within its pages.” —1 Wine Dude

“But First, Champagne is the book you didn’t know you needed.” —Fine Wine Concierge

“This is an instant classic, the definitive guide to the sparkling wine of a justly ballyhooed region . . . As with the wines themselves, White's most joyous accomplishment is in the finely etched details. —StarTribune

“A comprehensive, smartly written guide.” —Food & Wine

“David White shares an enthusiasm for the world’s classiest bubbly in his delightful new book . . . [he] has penned an indispensable guide to the French region and its wine.” —The Washington Post

“Exploring the renaissance of grower Champagne . . . White dives into the Champagne region’s storied history and demystifies the good stuff for wine geeks and newbies alike.” —Chicago Tribune

“You'll be entertained by the lively history and sumptuous photographs.” —The New Criterion

“[We] can confidently recommend this book as a good companion as you sip a bottle of bubbly.” —Vino-Sphere

“Those that pick up But First, Champagne . . . will be richly rewarded . . . White never loses sight of what makes the region a truly unique place, perhaps the only place that could give birth to the world's most magical wine.” —Tasting Panel

“Champagne is one of wine’s most misunderstood topics, not helped by the preponderance of philosophically rusty books on the topic. Enter David White’s sleek effort . . . it covers Champagne 101 deftly and in detail” —PUNCH

“A gratifying read. The book is not pretentious in any sort of way, rather simply admires the historical process that has brought about so many bubbles. At times, one forgets the book is about wine at all (in a good way), while the people, land, and tradition take center stage. But First, Champagne is great if you are looking for a new read or need something handy for reference. Either way, enjoy the rambunctious party that is the story of Champagne.” —Grape Collective

“White’s book brings a new perspective to a magical region that’s witnessed more heartbreak—and lubricated more celebrations—than anywhere else in the world. Packed with beautiful photographs, But First, Champagne is essential reading for wine enthusiasts, adventurous drinkers, and foodies.” —Miami Culinary Tours

“[White] has done a very, very good job of laying out the current state of Champagne in the context of the world wine marketplace. There’s a lot to like in But First, Champagne, not the least of which is the fact that both newbies and jaded connoisseurs alike can find ample merit within its pages.” —1 Wine Dude

From the Publisher