Cheese: The Making of a Wisconsin Tradition

Cheese: The Making of a Wisconsin Tradition

by Jerry Apps
Cheese: The Making of a Wisconsin Tradition

Cheese: The Making of a Wisconsin Tradition

by Jerry Apps

Paperback(2nd Edition)

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Overview

Wisconsin has not always been the dairy state, but cheese is a notable part of its heritage. Capturing the voices of farmers, milk haulers, makers, and graders, Jerry Apps provides a rich view into the history of cheese in the state, beginning with its humble origins in farmhouse kitchens. As he explores the extraordinary diversity of cheese products, he peppers his lively narrative with obscure lore.

In this updated edition of a classic, Apps examines tumultuous changes in the business over the past twenty years, including the impacts of corporate megafarms and the rise of artisanal producers. Vivid historical photographs and striking portraits of modern family-operated factories reveal the delicate balance between art and science that goes into the process of turning ordinary milk into a wide variety of flavors, from the ubiquitous cheddar to sublime delicacies. Through these stories, we can come to better appreciate the remarkable farmers and producers that shaped cheesemaking into the thriving industry it is today.

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9780299329242
Publisher: University of Wisconsin Press
Publication date: 09/22/2020
Edition description: 2nd Edition
Pages: 288
Sales rank: 266,840
Product dimensions: 5.90(w) x 8.90(h) x 0.60(d)

About the Author

Jerry Apps is the author of more than forty books on rural America and the Upper Midwest, including The Land Still Lives, Simple Things, and Breweries of Wisconsin. He has appeared in five documentaries produced by Wisconsin Public Television based on his books and is a professor emeritus at the University of Wisconsin-Madison.

Table of Contents

Preface ix

1 An Overview 3

2 Beginnings 13

3 Wisconsin Cheesemaking, 1840-1880 19

4 Wheat to Cheese 27

5 The Cheese Factory 33

6 Rapid Expansion, 1880-1920 40

7 The University of Wisconsin and Dairying 47

8 Caring for the Dairy Cow 53

9 How Cheese Is Made 57

10 Wisconsin's Historic Cheeses 64

11 Other Historic Cheeses 73

12 Historic Cheese Factories: Inside and Out 78

13 Life in a Cheese Factory 85

14 Growing Up in a Cheese Factory 90

15 Cheesemakers 96

16 Major Changes, 1920-1960 103

17 More Changes, 1920-1960 114

18 Transition, 1960-1998 118

19 New Directions, 1998-2020 124

20 Cheese Graders and Inspectors 134

21 Cheese Buyers, Processors, and Distributors 139

22 Specialty Cheeses 146

23 Wisconsin's Largest Cheese Producers 155

24 Selected Cheese Factory Histories 159

25 Specialized Cheese Factories 171

26 Supporting Organizations: Cheesemakers 185

27 Supporting Organizations: Dairy Farm Producers 194

28 Celebrating and Promoting Cheese 203

29 The Funny Side of Cheese 210

30 Green County, Wisconsin: A Case Study in Change 216

31 Final Thoughts 220

Appendix: Cheese Factory Museums and Tours 231

Notes 237

Bibliography 253

Index 259

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