Designing Women: Cinema, Art Deco, and the Female Form

Designing Women: Cinema, Art Deco, and the Female Form

by Lucy Fischer
ISBN-10:
0231125011
ISBN-13:
9780231125017
Pub. Date:
07/30/2003
Publisher:
Columbia University Press
ISBN-10:
0231125011
ISBN-13:
9780231125017
Pub. Date:
07/30/2003
Publisher:
Columbia University Press
Designing Women: Cinema, Art Deco, and the Female Form

Designing Women: Cinema, Art Deco, and the Female Form

by Lucy Fischer

Paperback

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Overview

Grand, sensational, and exotic, Art Deco design was above all modern, exemplifying the majesty and boundless potential of a newly industrialized world. From department store window dressings to the illustrations in the Sears, Roebuck & Co. catalogs to the glamorous pages of Vogue and Harper's Bazar, Lucy Fischer documents the ubiquity of Art Deco in mainstream consumerism and its connection to the emergence of the "New Woman" in American society. Fischer argues that Art Deco functioned as a trademark for popular notions of femininity during a time when women were widely considered to be the primary consumers in the average household, and as the tactics of advertisers as well as the content of new magazines such as Good Housekeeping and the Woman's Home Companion increasingly catered to female buyers. While reflecting the growing prestige of the modern woman, Art Deco-inspired consumerism helped shape the image of femininity that would dominate the American imagination for decades to come.

In films of the middle and late 1920s, the Art Deco aesthetic was at its most radical. Female stars such as Greta Garbo, Joan Crawford, and Myrna Loy donned sumptuous Art Deco fashions, while the directors Cecil B. DeMille, Busby Berkeley, Jacques Feyder, and Fritz Lang created cinematic worlds that were veritable Deco extravaganzas. But the style soon fell into decline, and Fischer examines the attendant taming of the female role throughout the 1930s as a growing conservatism challenged the feminist advances of an earlier generation. Progressively muted in films, the Art Deco woman—once an object of intense desire—gradually regressed toward demeaning caricatures and pantomimes of unbridled sexuality. Exploring the vision of American womanhood as it was portrayed in a large body of films and a variety of genres, from the fashionable musicals of Josephine Baker, and Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers to the fantastic settings of Metropolis, The Wizard of Oz, and Lost Horizon, Fischer reveals America's long standing fascination with Art Deco, the movement's iconic influence on cinematic expression, and how its familiar style left an indelible mark on American culture.

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9780231125017
Publisher: Columbia University Press
Publication date: 07/30/2003
Series: Film and Culture Series
Edition description: New Edition
Pages: 352
Product dimensions: 7.88(w) x 7.72(h) x 0.46(d)
Age Range: 18 Years

About the Author

Lucy Fischer is director of the film studies program and professor of English and film at the University of Pittsburgh, and a former president of the Society for Cinema and Media Studies. She is the author of Sunrise; Cinematernity: Film, Motherhood, Genre; and Shot/Countershot: Film Tradition and Women's Cinema.

Table of Contents

Introduction: A Method to My Madness
1.The Art Deco Style: Modernity and the Feminine
2.Counter Culture: Art Deco, Consumerism, and the Department Store
3.Design for Living: Marketing Art Deco to Women
4.Film Melodrama: Greta Garbo as Art Deco Icon
5.Art Deco and the Movie Musical
6.Strangers in Paradise: South Seas Films of the Art Deco Era
7.Architectural Exoticism and the Art Deco Picture Palace
8.Madame Satan: Fantasy, Art Deco, and the Femme Fatale
Afterword
Bibliography
Index

What People are Saying About This

Anne Friedberg

From the pages of women's magazines to the salons and counters of department stores to the set design of Hollywood films, the Art Deco style moderne was used to market modernity and elegance. In Designing Women: Cinema, Art Deco, and the Female Form, Lucy Fischer uses her personal attraction to the Deco style -- a collecting urge that fuels her scholarship -- to revisit the pages and films of the past with an analytic ardor. Fischer examines the figuration of a female body in Deco-infused cosmetics, jewelry, clothing, housewares, furniture, graphic design, fashion shows, and architecture. Designing Women offers a vivid contribution to the study of American material culture -- its surfaces and effects -- and the female consumers who fell under its spell.

Anne Friedberg, associate professor of film and visual studies, University of California, Irvine

Linda Williams

A beautiful, and beautifully illustrated, book that is a real pleasure to read. Indeed, rarely has a feminist-inspired study of film exhibited so much pure pleasure. The chapter on Art Deco and the Movie Musical is a sheer delight.

Linda Williams, University of California, Berkeley

Charles Silver

Lucy Fischer's writing has that rarest of qualities -- it is both scholarly and fun. Designing Women ranges freely over a wide spectrum from urban icon Greta Garbo to the equally exotic Polynesia of F. W. Murnau's imagination, from fleshy Deco statues to Flash Gordon and Fu Manchu. Her book is highly entertaining and informative about how the Age of Art Deco in the movies, Hollywood's Golden Age, shaped our lives and our souls.

Charles Silver, associate curator, department of film and media, The Museum of Modern Art

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