Publishers Weekly
★ 09/18/2023
Lebanese-British journalist Hankir (editor of Our Women on the Ground) explores in this creative study how a ubiquitous cosmetic has been used over the millennia as a way to both connect to a sense of tradition and to express individuality. Historically, kohl and similar sources of eyeliner protected both men and women from dust, sun, water, bacteria, and other irritants in the deserts of Africa and the Middle East. It has since imbued wearers with a sense of empowerment, according to Hankir, who notes that Iranian women assert their limited freedom with eyeliner, balancing their “desire for self-expression against assessment of risk.” As makeup brand founder Regina Merson says of the Mexican-American Chola subculture, “a Mexican woman in eyeliner is a woman in power.” Hankir packs her reader-friendly narrative with relatable examples of cultural and geographic significance, spotlighting notable figures who used eyeliner to define themselves, including Egyptian queen Nefertiti and singer Amy Winehouse, whose thick 1960s-inspired winged eyeliner extended toward her hairline as her discomfort with her chaotic life of fame grew. As one precocious 12-year-old remarks, “Eyeliner shows your personality.” Throughout, Hankir maintains an appealing sense of intimacy as she recounts her own experience of expressing her Lebanese and Egyptian heritage by perfecting the eyeliner essential to her style. This captivating account reveals the complex significance of a seemingly simple adornment. (Nov.)
From the Publisher
Praise for Eyeliner:
“[A] perceptive cultural history . . . engrossing and appealingly monomaniacal . . . Each chapter is more interesting than the last. Hankir doesn’t take her subject too seriously; her history lessons are peppered with cultural references and good humor. The book is also a smoky-eye lover’s paradise: an orgy of makeup rituals, of tips and tricks, of brands to try.” —Cat Marnell, The New York Times Book Review
“[Eyeliner] artfully blend[s] a history of the eye cosmetic with an emotive treatment of makeup’s relation to the self . . . a thoughtful, unlikely romp across the world, viewing a small but significant part of cultural history, through a keen (and boldly defined) eye.” —Wall Street Journal
“Fascinating . . . In my line of business (being Miss Universe), eyeliner is more than an item in a makeup kit—it’s part of an artistic palette. This simple tool gives us the power to command a room, to make a personality statement, and to change our entire look on a whim. As Zahra Hankir shows, none of this is new or even modern, but has been part of a legacy of powerful women for millennia.” —Sheynnis Palacio, Miss Universe 2023, CNN's “Best Books of 2023”
“Eyeliner is admirable in the breadth and depth of its research, and edifying . . . an impressive, rigorously researched, winding path through centuries and over continents.” —NPR.org
“A marvel . . . [Hankir] goes back in time, around the globe and into her own past, painting a picture that not only resituates eyeliner in the cultural imaginary but celebrates the myriad contributions of communities of color to beauty history.” —Anne Helen Peterson, “Culture Study”
“Hankir does a spectacular job of raising the stakes and setting up eyeliner as this culturally powerful and iconic practice, all tied back on Nefertiti…a book that succeeds in telling, if not one story, then many stories, about a utilitarian, symbolic, and essential practice that transcends cultures around the world.” —Chicago Review of Books
“[Hankir] seamlessly takes her readers on a global investigation . . . Through intimate narratives with varied characters from different cultures and communities, we learn more about the product’s rise in prominence while having a fly-on-the-wall inside look at the ways it serves medicinal purposes, fuels spiritual practices, uplifts self-expression and how its mere existence on someone’s eyelid can be viewed as a form of defiance.” —Associated Press
“A significant addition to cultural histories of self-expression. Hankir disrupts many deeply held assumptions about beauty, gender, and power . . . Hankir writes with boldness and care . . . [she] meticulously details commonalities in physical and aesthetic practices [...] without losing sight of cultural specificity or intersectionality.” —Library Journal (starred review)
“A fascinating history . . . If you've never given much thought to the beauty staple, Eyeliner will change that forever.” —Town & Country
“Eyeliner proves both educative and topical, and is punctuated throughout with wit and humor. Thrillingly, the author’s extensive archival research is complemented by her own travels and first-hand experiences . . . Throughout the book, Hankir challenges the uncritical view of eyeliner as a mere 'exercise in vanity' or simply a consumerist fad.” —The Markaz
“A narrative that, fittingly, bypasses dominant Western discourses of makeup and fashion, which is part of what makes this work so refreshing to read . . . This book demonstrates that eyeliner is not simply a frivolous decoration; it connects back to a much larger story.” —4Columns
“This captivating account reveals the complex significance of a seemingly simple adornment . . . Hankir packs her reader-friendly narrative with relatable examples of cultural and geographic significance . . . Throughout, Hankir maintains an appealing sense of intimacy.” —Publishers Weekly (starred review)
“Readers will never think of eyeliner the same way after reading this book . . . [Eyeliner] has a richer and sometimes stranger history than many people (including me) would have guessed . . . endlessly fascinating.” —Electric Literature
“An intriguing journey through time and across continents . . . [Hankir] travels far in pursuit of her research, expressing a contagious wonder at the layers of common ground a simple object like eyeliner offers people of diverse backgrounds . . . Eyeliner features a particularly dazzling chapter on the late Amy Winehouse . . . [A] well-written, absorbing debut.” —Shelf Awareness
“Eye-opening and surprisingly intimate . . . Hankir’s journalism background shines through . . . And her own reflections lend weight to the close-up and personal feeling conveyed throughout . . . Eyeliner is a thorough retrospective of a product that has endured over time and continues to play a significant role for cultures around the globe.” —BookPage
“Fascinating . . . The book travels around the world and through time, documenting the use of eyeliner in religious settings, in social settings, cultural customs around it, and much more. [Hankir] blends memoir and anecdote with research and reportage, historical examination, and cultural/societal commentary to create an absorbing and engaging read.” —Book Riot
“Absorbing . . . Hankir provides an engaging, colorful study while relating her own cross-cultural story.” —Kirkus Reviews
“Detailed and engaging . . . [an] absorbing look at how people around the world use eyeliner to express and reinvent themselves . . . readers interested in beauty culture will be fascinated by this accessible examination of such a versatile and popular beauty product.” —Booklist
“Intriguing . . . [Hankir] uses this ancient form of makeup as an ingenius prism through which to explore cultural identity.” —The Bookseller (UK), Editor's Choice
“I loved Eyeliner. Hankir approaches her subject with dedicated curiosity, humility, and humor, blending anthropology, travel writing, memoir and history. A treat to read and—of course—beautifully eye-opening.” —Kassia St. Clair, author of The Secret Lives of Color
“Zahra Hankir’s Eyeliner is a captivating exploration of the historic lineage and contemporary use of eyeliner. An arresting feminist narrative from start to finish, this book reveals the depth and multi-dimensionality of a cosmetic that connects Queen Nefertiti to young women protesting in contemporary Iran and beyond.” —Rafia Zakaria, author of Against White Feminism
“Combining the steady contemplation of the personal essay with her journalistic flair for storytelling, Zahra Hankir traces the history of kohl, traversing space, time, and cultures to delve into the deeply human importance of a makeup kit staple many of us don't give a second thought. The result is an engaging read that is poignant, enlightening, and full of emotional depth.” —Layla AlAmmar, author of Silence is a Sense
“Who knew the humble eyeliner could offer up so much? Zahra Hankir’s beautiful writing style and incredible attention to detail mean that even those with zero interest in makeup will find this book awe-inspiring and fascinating as it goes far beyond the realm of beauty.” —Funmi Fetto, Contributing Beauty Editor at British Vogue and Beauty Director at the Observer
Library Journal
★ 10/01/2023
Lebanese British journalist Hankir (editor, Our Women on the Ground) writes with boldness and care as she documents many stories regarding eyeliner, whether it's about her mother's ritualistic application of it or the power women found throughout history by using it to reveal details about themselves. Hankir explains eyeliner's cultural symbolism and how for many women, especially people of color, the makeup is used to reflect one's sense of self, power, spirituality, sexuality, rebellion, and resistance or to mark rites of passage. The book showcases Hankir's research findings and insight into expressions of beauty across time and geography, with glimpses into the practice of eyeliner application in ancient Egypt, Chad, Jordan, Iran, India, and Japan. Hankir meticulously details commonalities in physical and aesthetic practices—eyeliner has consistently been used to precisely enlarge eyes and make them attractive, for example—without losing sight of cultural specificity or intersectionality. The book culminates with an analysis of social media influencers' use of hashtags about eyeliner. VERDICT A significant addition to cultural histories of self-expression. Hankir disrupts many deeply held assumptions about beauty, gender, and power.—Emily Bowles
Kirkus Reviews
2023-08-17
An exploration of the mystery, beauty, and potency of eyeliner.
At first blush, a book about eyeliner would seem to be so esoteric that it would appeal only to fashion addicts, but it turns out to be an absorbing piece of work. Lebanese-British journalist Hankir, editor of Our Women on the Ground, mixes her personal experiences with the social history of eyeliner. Eyeliner reached its first peak in ancient Egypt, with paintings of the era showing women and men adorned with eyeliner. Hankir has always been mesmerized by the famous bust of Nefertiti, which shows eyeliner in all its glory, with “wings” flowing from the sides of the eyes. The bust had a critical impact on the author, helping her to overcome her adolescent insecurities and accept living between two cultures. Nefertiti leads her to an examination of eyeliner in the Middle East, India, and Japan, and she digs through the complex cultural and historical layers. Interestingly, in Islamic countries, religious authorities frown on most cosmetics but accept eyeliner, perhaps because Muhammad used a form of it “to protect his eyes.” In the West, eyeliner is not usually used by men, although there have been plenty of exceptions in the creative industries and within the queer community. There is no shortage of types and styles for women, pushed along by celebrities and social media. The latest trend is to wear only eyeliner, rejecting other makeup and accepting skin blemishes. Hankir also examines eyeliner in the context of women of color reclaiming their heritage, and she asks readers to appreciate that beauty has many roots. “To wear eyeliner and to learn about its origins is to bring not only ourselves,” she concludes, “but also some of the world’s most fascinating cultures, into focus.”
Hankir provides an engaging, colorful study while relating her own cross-cultural story.
