Fire and Spice: Parsi Cooking

by Joyce P Westrip, Jane Smith (Other)

Overview

There are few books available on Parsi cuisine in English. Joyce Westrip introduces this aromatic Indian cuisine that is based upon the culinary habits of the Parsis who left Iran some 1300 years ago to settle along India's western coastline. Relatively unknown Indian cuisine with mouth-watering authentic recipes ranging from simple, everyday meals to elaborate dishes served at weddings and special occasions. Fire and Spice is the first ever book on Parsi cooking to be published outside India, and introduces the reader to a delicious array of recipes, ranging from simple, everyday dishes that can be prepared in a matter of minutes to elaborate dhansaks and biryanis normally served at weddings and other special occasions.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781897959411
Publisher:	Serif
Publication date:	09/01/2003
Pages:	192
Product dimensions:	5.50(w) x 8.40(h) x 0.60(d)

Read an Excerpt

Fire and Spice

Parsi Cookery

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By Joyce Westrip

Serif Books

Copyright © 2012 Serif
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-897959-41-1

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CHAPTER 1

MEAT DISHES

THE ZOROASTRIAN RELIGION imposes no prohibition on the eating of any particular type of meat, but Parsis living in India refrain from eating beef out of respect for their Hindu neighbours. For the majority community, cows are sacred and beef is forbidden, even to those whose faith allows them to eat meat.

Pork, of course, is abhorrent to India's Muslim minority, but it is not forbidden to meat-eating Hindus or Christians and is very popular in Goa, where a significant proportion of the population is Roman Catholic as a result of four centuries of Portuguese rule, and I have enjoyed a delicious Pork Vindaloo, a recipe of Goan origin, at the home of Parsi friends. Large pig farms are to be found in various parts of India and it is quite common to see scrawny-looking pigs foraging for food by the roadside. Of the relatively few pork recipes in the Parsi culinary repertoire, I include one for Pork Curry on p.43, a sweet and sour dish that makes a change from the lamb dishes that tend to dominate Parsi meat cookery.

In most of India – except Kashmir, where lamb is king – sheep are slaughtered only when they have reached a certain age. Mutton is preferred to lamb because it stands up to a longer cooking time, thus allowing the flavours of herbs and spices to penetrate the meat more fully, although more kid, or young goat, is consumed in India than any other meat. For the health-conscious, kid has the advantage of being leaner than lamb or mutton, and it doesn't have the rank odour sometimes associated with the meat of older members of its species. If goat isn't easily obtainable, young lamb, sometimes called milk-fed lamb, may be substituted. Any cut of lamb may be used in the recipes that follow. I have stipulated lean lamb, but in most Indian households the meat would not be trimmed of all its fat, which enriches the flavour of whatever dish it forms a part.

KID WITH POTATOES

Papeta Ma Kid Gosht

A selection of Parsi meat dishes would be incomplete without at least one recipe calling for kid. Here the young goat meat is rubbed with ginger and garlic and left to marinate. The meat is then fried and added to potatoes and tomatoes in an aromatic masala – a combination of spices – made with cinnamon, cardamom and cloves. If you cannot find kid, young lamb makes an acceptable substitute. Young goat rubbed with a ginger and garlic paste is delicious when cooked in a barbecue kettle or on a spit over a wood fire.

1 kg/2 lb kid, cut into 5 cm/2 inch cubes
8 cm/3 inches finely chopped ginger
3 cloves finely chopped garlic
2 tbsp ghee

Put the cubed meat into a bowl and rub in the ginger and garlic. Set aside for 1 hour. After marinating the kid, heat the ghee and fry the meat to seal it. Set aside.

4 tbsp ghee
2 finely sliced large onions
2 tsp chilli powder
2 cinnamon sticks
10 cloves
10 light-coloured cardamom pods, bruised
20 peppercorns
2 large tomatoes, chopped
3 large potatoes, diced
1 cup water
1 tsp salt or to taste
1 ½ cups canned coconut milk

Heat the ghee in a heavy-bottomed pan, fry the onions until they start to change colour, add the chilli powder, cinnamon sticks, cloves, cardamoms and peppercorns and fry for about 3 minutes to release their aromas. Add the tomatoes, potatoes and water and bring to the boil.

Mix in the meat with any liquid that has accumulated. Add salt and simmer for 5 minutes, remove from the heat and pour in the coconut milk. Return to the heat and continue cooking until the meat is tender – this will probably take between 1 and 1 ½ hours.

LIGHTLY-SPICED LAMB STEW

Sali Boti

Easy to prepare, this delicately spiced dish has a touch of sweetness and is ideal for everyday eating. It is best served with lentils or vegetables and rice or bread. Potatoes cut into pieces little larger than matchsticks are known as potato straws or sali in Parsi cooking. They are fried until crisp and golden and may be cooked ahead and, when cold, stored in an airtight container. I often prepare the straws in larger quantities than called for in the recipe and put some aside to serve with drinks.

3 tbsp vegetable oil
2 finely sliced onions
4 cm /1 ½ inches grated ginger
4 cloves finely chopped garlic
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp chilli powder
1 tsp garam masala
1 tsp turmeric powder

Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed pan. Fry the onions until they start to change colour, then add the ginger, garlic and cumin seeds and fry for 2 minutes. Add a little water if the mixture is inclined to stick. Then add the chilli powder, garam masala and turmeric and stir-fry for 1 minute.

1 kg/2 lb cubed lean lamb
Salt to taste
1 tsp soft brown sugar
3 large tomatoes, puréed
1 cup water
½ cup yoghurt

Add the meat, salt and sugar to the above mixture and fry to seal. Add the puréed tomatoes, water and yoghurt and bring to the boil. Then reduce the heat and simmer for approximately 1 hour or until the meat is cooked and tender. Remove to a serving dish and garnish liberally with crisp potato straws.

2 large potatoes, peeled
2 tsp salt
Vegetable oil for deep-frying

Cut the potatoes into pieces the size of large matchsticks. Place them in a large bowl, sprinkle with salt, cover with cold water and leave to sit for 15 minutes. Drain, spread the potato straws onto a tea towel and pat dry, absorbing as much moisture as possible. Heat the oil in a deep pan or fryer. When the oil begins to splutter, add the potato straws in batches and fry until golden and crunchy. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on absorbent paper.

SWEET AND SOUR LAMB

Gosht Na Curry Chawal

This is a full-bodied dish, its sauce made rich with cashews, poppy seeds, coconut and tomatoes, and the addition of potatoes to the meat makes a hearty meal when served with plain rice. Tamarind pulp is available in compressed block form, which is slightly sweeter than the paste or concentrate. Tamarind paste and concentrate are available from oriental stores and some supermarkets and may be more convenient to use. If you are using the paste or concentrate, dilute 1 ½ tablespoons of the paste or 3 teaspoons of the concentrate in 1 cup of hot water.

75 g/6 oz tamarind pulp
1 ½ cups hot water

Soak the tamarind pulp in the hot water. When the water has cooled, squeeze and rub the pulp with your fingers to dissolve the tamarind. Strain through a sieve and retain the liquid, discarding the seeds and fibres. Set aside.

8 cloves garlic
2.5 cm/1 inch ginger

Add a little water to the garlic and ginger and blend to a paste.

3 tbsp ghee or vegetable oil
2 finely sliced onions
2 tsp coriander powder
2 tsp cumin powder
1 tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp chilli powder
2 tsp roasted and ground poppy seeds
1 tbsp roasted and ground cashews
¼ can drained chick-peas
30 g/1 oz freshly grated or desiccated coconut
750 g/1 ½ lb cubed lean lamb
3 large potatoes, quartered
2 large tomatoes, chopped
2 tsp soft brown sugar
1 tsp salt or to taste
2 cups hot water

Heat the ghee or oil in a heavy-bottomed pan, fry the onion and the paste until the onion starts to change colour, stirring to prevent sticking. Add the coriander, cumin, turmeric, chilli, poppy seeds, cashews, chick-peas and coconut. Stir-fry the mixture for 3 minutes, adding a little water if the mixture is inclined to stick. Add the lamb and potatoes and stir to coat. When the meat is sealed, add the tomatoes, sugar, tamarind extract, salt and hot water. Reduce the heat and simmer until the meat is tender. This will take between 1 and 1 ½ hours. Serve with plain white rice and Coconut Chutney (p.171).

LAMB WITH APRICOTS

Jardaloo Ma Boti

Mutton may be used instead of lamb in this simple but flavoursome recipe. Dried figs and sometimes cubes of fresh pineapple are added to – or substituted for – the apricots. When I was first served this dish, my Parsi friends were quick to point out that the use of apricots indicates that this is a recipe of Persian origin. If you are arranging a meal by courses, serve this fairly dry dish with one of the breads as a starter or first course.

1 ½ tbsp ghee
1 finely chopped onion
3 cloves finely chopped garlic
4 cm/1 ½ inches finely chopped ginger
500 g/1 lb lean lamb, cubed
2 cups water
Salt to taste

Heat the ghee in a heavy-bottomed pan. Fry the onion, garlic and ginger until the onion starts to change colour, then add the meat and fry until it is sealed. Add the water and salt and simmer until the meat is cooked and the liquid has almost evaporated – this can take between 1 and 1 ½ hours. Remove to a serving dish and keep warm.

2 tbsp sugar
½ cup water
125 g/4 oz dried apricots, slivered

Put the sugar, water and the dried apricots into a heavy-bottomed saucepan and simmer until the apricot slivers are softened. To serve, spoon the fruit and liquid over the meat.

SPICY KEBABS

Kabab

Dhansak (p.38) takes pride of place in Parsi cooking. It is a wholesome meal of lamb cooked with lentils and vegetables and always served with spicy kebabs, a salad and a sweet mango accompaniment. These kebabs are a perfect companion to drinks, especially when served with one of the numerous sauces to be found on the shelves of supermarkets and oriental stores. I find that a sweet chilli sauce goes particularly well with these kebabs or, if you prefer a cooling effect, add some finely chopped fresh mint and coriander leaves to natural yoghurt. If made a little larger, the kebabs can be served with a salad as a first course.

500 g/1 lb minced lean lamb
1 finely chopped onion
4 cm/1 ½ inches finely chopped ginger
1 clove finely chopped garlic
2 finely chopped green chillies
2 tsp coriander powder
1 tsp cumin powder
1 tsp garam masala
1 tbsp finely chopped coriander leaves
1 tbsp finely chopped mint
½ tsp ground black pepper
2 tsp lemon juice
4 slices stale bread, crusts removed, soaked in water andsqueezed of moisture
Salt to taste

Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl. Knead the mixture well. Then moisten your hands, form the mixture into small balls and flatten them into pattie shapes. Refrigerate for 1 hour to firm up the patties.

Vegetable oil for shallow frying

Heat the oil and gently fry the kebabs on each side until cooked. This should take 2–3 minutes each side.

LAMB WITH OKRA

Tarela Bhida Ma Gosht

Okra is often called 'lady's fingers' because it is supposed to resemble slender tapered fingers. Large okra pods tend to be stringy and tough, so try to select small, young pods that are bright green in colour. A good way to test for freshness is to snap the end near the tip – if it breaks off easily, the okra is tender.

500 g/1 lb okra
3–4 tbsp ghee
1 finely chopped onion
5 cm/2 inches finely chopped ginger
1 clove finely chopped garlic
1 tsp ground black pepper
1 tsp turmeric
500 g/1 lb cubed lean lamb
3 cups meat or vegetable stock or water Salt to taste

Tail and cut the okra into 2.5 cm/1 inch lengths. Heat the ghee in a heavy-bottomed pan, toss and fry the pieces of okra for about 1 minute, then remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Fry the onion, ginger and garlic in the remaining ghee until the onion starts to change colour. Then stir in the black pepper and turmeric, add the meat and continue frying until it is sealed. Pour the water or stock over the mixture, add the salt and simmer for about 1 hour until the lamb is tender and the liquid much reduced. Gently stir in the okra pieces and cook for about 2–3 minutes. The okra should be tender but slightly crisp. Over-cooking will cause the okra to become slimy and mushy.

DEEP-FRIED LAMB KEBABS

Kabab Gostna Tarela

Lamb kebabs flavoured with mint, fresh coriander and black pepper are coated in semolina and then deep-fried. They make a delicious snack and go well with pre- dinner drinks.

4 cm/1 ½ inches roughly chopped ginger
10 cloves garlic
½ cup mint leaves
1 cup coriander leaves
3 green chillies
2 tbsp lime or lemon juice

Blend the ginger, garlic, mint and coriander leaves, chillies and lime or lemon juice to a smooth paste.

500 g/1 lb finely minced lean lamb
2 tsp ground black pepper
1 ½ tsp salt
1 tsp turmeric
¼ cup yoghurt, drained of whey

Put the minced lamb into a bowl with the pepper, salt, turmeric and yoghurt. Add the blended paste and mix well to integrate all the ingredients. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour so that the mixture becomes firm.

1 lightly beaten egg
1 cup semolina to coat the kebabs
Vegetable oil for deep-frying

After refrigeration, knead the beaten egg into the mixture. Moisten your hands lightly and form the mixture into walnut-sized balls. Spread the semolina onto a flat surface and roll the kebabs in the semolina until they are well coated. Deep-fry the kebabs a few at a time. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on absorbent kitchen paper.

LAMB WITH VEGETABLES AND LENTILS

Farmasso Dhansak Ni Dal

'Farmasso' means 'first rate' or 'excellent'. This dish is a complete meal of meat, vegetables and lentils served with Caramelised Spicy Rice (p.117), Spicy Kebabs (p.34) and accompanied by Kachubar, a typical Parsi salad (p.175), and Aambakalio, a sweet mango dish (p.173). It is often served on a day when ancestors and departed souls are remembered. The traditional recipe is intended to be fiery hot as it calls for both red and green chillies. When I was given this recipe, 7 green and 10 red chillies were recommended. I have reduced the quantities of chillies used, but you may wish to increase the heat by adding more.

250 g/8 oz toovar (pigeon pea) lentils
1 can cooked and drained chick-peas

Rinse the lentils until the water runs clear. Place in a bowl, cover with water and set aside to soak for 4 hours or overnight. Drain. Rinse and drain the canned chick-peas.

2 diced potatoes
250 g/8 oz diced pumpkin
1 small diced aubergine
1 tbsp chopped fenugreek leaves
1 diced white radish
1 cup roughly chopped coriander leaves
3 finely chopped green chillies
½ cup chopped mint leaves
1 ½ tsp turmeric
2 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper
2 large tomatoes, chopped

Place the lentils, chick-peas, potatoes, pumpkin, aubergine, fenugreek, radish, coriander leaves, chillies, mint, turmeric, salt and pepper in a heavy-bottomed pan and cover with water to about 5 cm / 2 inches above the surface. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes, stirring from time to time to prevent sticking. Depending on the size of the pan, you may need to add a little more water. Add the tomatoes and continue cooking for a further 15 minutes, adding a little water if necessary to keep the mixture fairly moist. Test that the lentils are cooked by mashing some of the mixture between your thumb and forefinger or against the side of the pan with a wooden spoon. When cooked, mash the mixture in the pan and set aside.

4 cm/ 1½ inches roughly chopped ginger
3 cloves roughly chopped garlic
2 tbsp ghee
1 finely chopped onion
500 g/1 lb cubed lamb
1 tsp salt
4 cups water or meat or vegetable stock

Add a little water to the ginger and garlic, blend to a paste and set aside. Heat the ghee in another heavy-bottomed pan and fry the onion with the ginger and garlic paste until the onion starts to change colour. Add the lamb and salt and fry to seal, then pour in water or stock and simmer for approximately 1 hour. When the lamb is tender, add the mashed vegetables. Stir well, return to the heat and simmer.

2 tbsp ghee
1 finely sliced onion
3 finely chopped red chillies
5 cm/2 inches roughly ground cinnamon stick
2 tsp roughly ground cumin seeds
1 tsp garam masala
½ tsp saffron threads, steeped for 15 minutes in 1 tbsp hot milk
1 cup water if required

Add the ghee to another pan and fry the onion until it starts to change colour. Add the chillies, cinnamon and cumin seeds and continue frying for 2 minutes, then stir into the meat mixture. Sprinkle in the garam masala and the saffron threads and milk, adding the stock or water if you prefer a moister sauce. Simmer, while continuing to stir, for 3 minutes.

LAMB CUTLETS IN A SPICY TOMATO SAUCE

Khatta Mitha Cutlets

Minced lamb cutlets or patties are slipped into a colourful sweet and sour sauce. Don't be deterred by the number of ingredients – this is a delicious dish and very popular at Parsi weddings. You may wish to serve the cutlets as a starter with one of the breads.

500 g/1 lb finely minced lean lamb
1 large potato, boiled and mashed
2 finely chopped onions
6 cloves finely chopped garlic
4 cm/1½ inches finely chopped ginger
½ cup finely chopped coriander leaves
1 tbsp finely chopped mint leaves
4 finely chopped green chillies
1 tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp cumin powder
1 tsp coriander powder
1 ½ tsp salt
1 tbsp chick-pea flour
1 lightly beaten egg

(Continues...)

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Excerpted from Fire and Spice by Joyce Westrip. Copyright © 2012 Serif. Excerpted by permission of Serif Books.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

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Table of Contents

Contents

FOREWORD (Pat Chapman),
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS,
INTRODUCTION,
MEAT DISHES,
CHICKEN DISHES,
OFFAL,
FISH AND SHELLFISH,
EGG DISHES,
VEGETABLES AND PULSES,
RICE DISHES,
BREADS,
DESSERTS AND PASTRIES,
CHUTNEYS, SALADS AND SAUCES,
RECIPE LIST,