Table of Contents
1 Experience Argentina 6
20 Ultimate Experiences 8
What's Where 16
What to Eat in Argentina 18
Argentine Wines and Grape Varieties 20
What to Buy/Souvenirs 22
Wildlife in Argentina 24
Argentine Liquors 26
Argentina's Natural Wonders 28
Argentina Today 30
Best Festivals in Argentina 32
What to Watch and Read 40
2 Travel Smart 41
Know Before You Go 42
Getting Here and Around 44
Essentials 51
Helpful Spanish Phrases 60
Great Itineraries 62
Contacts 66
3 Buenos Aires 67
Welcome to Buenos Aires 68
Planning 71
Centre 75
Puerto Madero 87
San Telmo 90
La Boca 95
Recoleta 98
Almagro 107
Palermo 109
4 Side Trips from Buenos Aires 125
Welcome to Side Trips from Buenos Aires 126
Planning 129
Tigre and the Paraná Delta 130
San Antonio de Areco 134
Iguazú Falls 144
5 Side Trips to Uruguay 159
Welcome to Side Trips to Uruguay 160
Planning 163
Montevideo 165
Colonia del Sacramento 181
Punta del Este 186
6 The Northwest 195
Welcome to The Northwest 196
Planning 199
San Salvador de Jujuy 201
Purmamarca 206
Tilcara 210
Humahuaca 213
Salta and San Lorenzo 225
Cachi 235
Molinos 237
Cafayate 239
7 Mendoza and the Wine Regions 249
Welcome to Mendoza and the Wine Regions 250
Cerro Aconcagua via the Uspallata Pass 252
Planning 255
Mendoza City 258
Maipú 266
Luján de Cuyo 268
Uspallata 274
Tupungato 286
Tunuyán 289
San Rafael 292
Las Lenas 296
San Juan 299
Barreal 303
8 The Lake District 305
Welcome to The Lake District 306
Ruta de los Siete Lagos 308
Circuito Chico y Circuito Grande 310
Planning 312
Bariloche 314
San Martin de los Andes and Nearby 327
Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi 341
El Bolsón and Nearby 347
9 Patagonia 353
Welcome to Patagonia 354
Calendar of Fauna on Peninsula Valdes 356
Planning 359
Patagonia Cruise Planner 361
Puerto Madryn and Peninsula Valdés 362
Trelew, Caiman, and Punta Tombo 384
Sarmiento and the Bosque Petrificado 390
El Calafate, El Chaltén, and Parque Nacional los Glaciates 392
Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine, Chile 408
Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego 419
Index 433
About Our Writers 448
Maps
Buenos Aires Metro 72
Centro, Puerto Madero, San Telmo, and La Boca 76-77
Recoleta, Almagro, and Palermo 100-101
Buenos Aires Area 129
San Antonio de Areco 135
Puerto Iguazú 146
Foz do Iguacu 157
Montevideo 168-169
Colonia del Sacramento 182
Punta del Este 188
Jujuy and Salta Provinces 201
San Salvador de Jujuy 204
Salta 228-229
Mendoza City 260-261
Valle de Uco Wineries 288
San Rafael Wineries 293
San Juan Wineries 302
Bariloche 316-317
San Martín de los Andes 328
Parque Nacional Lanín 332
Parque Nacionai Nahuel Huapi 344
El Bolsón 348
Atlantic Patagonia 364
Puerto Madryn 367
Peninsula Valdés 378
Gaiman 387
Southern Patagonia 393
El Calafate 396-397
Parque Nacional los Glaciares 406
Parque Nacionai Torres del Paine 414
Ushuaia 422-423
A Passionate History 33
The Dance of Buenos Aires 117
The Cowboys at World's End 136
Touring the Quebrada de Humahuaca 216
Wines of Chile & Argentina 278
Fly Fishing 336
Into the Patagonian Wild 369