Footsteps on the Ice: The Antarctic Diaries of Stuart D. Paine, Second Byrd Expedition
400
Footsteps on the Ice: The Antarctic Diaries of Stuart D. Paine, Second Byrd Expedition
400eBook
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Overview
In 1933 Antarctica was essentially unexplored. Admiral Richard Byrd launched his Second Expedition to chart the southernmost continent, primarily relying on the muscle power of dog teams and their drivers who skied or ran beside the loaded sledges as they traveled. The life-threatening challenges of moving glaciers, invisible crevasses, and horrific storms compounded the difficulties of isolation, darkness, and the unimaginable cold that defined the men’s lives.
Stuart Paine was a dog driver, radio operator, and navigator on the fifty-six-man expedition, the bold and complex venture that is now famous for Byrd’s dramatic rescue from Bolling Advance Weather Base located 115 miles inland. Paine’s diaries represent the only published contemporary account written by a member of the Second Expedition. They reveal a behind-the-scenes look at the contentiousness surrounding the planned winter rescue of Byrd and offer unprecedented insights into the expedition’s internal dynamics.
Equally riveting is Paine’s breathtaking narrative of the fall and summer field operations as the field parties depended on their own resources in the face of interminable uncertainty and peril. Undertaking the longest and most hazardous sledging journey of the expedition, Paine guided the first American party from the edge of the Ross Sea more than seven hundred miles up the Ross Ice Shelf and the massive Thorne (Scott) Glacier to approach the South Pole. He and two other men skied more than fourteen hundred miles in eighty-eight days to explore and map part of Antarctica for the first time.
Footsteps on the Ice reveals the daily struggles, extreme personalities, and the matter-of-fact bravery of early explorers who are now fading into history. Detailing the men’s frustrations, annoyances, and questioning of their leader, Paine’s entries provide rare insight into how Byrd conducted his expeditions. Paine exposes the stresses of living under the snow in Little America during the four-month-long winter night, trapped in dim, crowded huts and black tunnels, while the men uneasily mulled over their leader’s isolation at Advance Base. The fates of Paine’s dogs, which provided some of his most difficult and rewarding experiences, are also described—his relationship with Jack, his lead dog, is an entrancing story in itself.
Featuring previously unpublished photographs and illustrations, Footsteps on the Ice documents the period in Antarctic exploration that bridged the “heroic era” and the modern age of mechanized travel. Depicting almost incomprehensible mental and physical duress and unhesitating courage, Paine’s tale is one of the most compelling stories in polar history, surpassing other accounts with its immediacy and adventure as it captures the majesty and mystery of the untouched Antarctic.
Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9780826265920 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | University of Missouri Press |
| Publication date: | 06/18/2007 |
| Sold by: | Barnes & Noble |
| Format: | eBook |
| Pages: | 400 |
| File size: | 44 MB |
| Note: | This product may take a few minutes to download. |
| Age Range: | 14 Years |
About the Author
M. L. Paine, the daughter of Stuart Paine, is an independent researcher who resides in Nevada and Alaska.
Read an Excerpt
Footsteps on the Ice
The Antarctic Diaries of Stuart D. Paine, Second Byrd Expedition
By M. L. Paine
University of Missouri Press
Copyright © 2007 M. L. PaineAll rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-0-8262-6592-0
CHAPTER 1
Chinook Kennels
September 27–November 2, 1933
September 27, Wednesday, 1933, Durham
Left S. H. Kress & Co., 114 5th Avenue, around August 27 through influence of [Kennett] Rawson. In line for a position as quartermaster aboard Pacific Fir. Interviewed Commander Queen at Staten Island. Del's Ford broke down on Staten Island Ferry. Unable to make boat which Queen said sailed that Friday afternoon at five. Took train for Boston following morning. Failed to find Ken + came home over weekend, returned to Boston Sunday night. Nothing doing + came back to Durham [New Hampshire]. Returned to Boston following Monday. Nothing doing. Waited here until Labor Day when Rawson called + made me member of Dog Department at Wonalancet, N.H. Capt. Taylor stopped from Boston + took me up. Acted as cook primarily + learned driving. Been there three weeks + a day to date. Fascinating work + I love it. Taylor, Dane, Buckley, Stancliff, Moody + myself constitute dog department at present time.
Came down from Wonalancet yesterday, with Moody who was on my way to Topsfield to get Dr. Souther. To date, Noble, Blackie, Snip, Kingmick, Wendy, Wolf, Pete + several others have died from either distemper reaction or form of meningitis. Great consternation. Dr. May consulted + has been up to camp. Returning to Wonalancet tomorrow. Dearie still has severe cold. Very hard to say good-by. Feel as though I were deserting the ship. But she is wonderful + is fatalistic about my going. Phil a brick about his job on bridge + is hauling in $42 a week. His support seems essential to keep us all going. Strange that I should turn out the adventurer + he the capitalist of the family, where it was just a few weeks ago that he was the one going to the South Seas + I was embarking for New York bound upon a career of fame + wealth. But six weeks of Kress + New York was enough. Me for dogs, the expedition + the active life! Sounds dramatic!
Thursday, September 28
Returned to Chinook Kennels to-day. Phil drove me up. Got here 1:30, saw dogs + introduced them to old Uncle Philly. He returned about 2:30 after a feast of beets + macaroni. Resumed cooking—rice pudding, hamburg, mashed potatoes + cake which I took credit for. Eleanor Bennett + Janet Palmer here + off with Buck + Moody. Power died to-night. I discovered him in last stages when getting water. Stan + I carried him to autopsy, which was performed by Dr. Souther, the butcher. Some damn ailment, inflammation of stomach + intestines. And I had driven him only 3 days ago. Feel real sad about it.
Left Dearie with cold but with a stout + brave heart. She was wonderful about my going. The Rosary came to her twice when she got my letters about my going + she feels, + I hope it is true, that it is a message from Dad. I am sure he would approve of my going, in fact he would want to go himself. Very sad leaving Dearie + the winter facing her. I hope to God she will be all right. But what a grand + blessed person she is. Phil gave me $20 out of his wages. I feel 'umble as 'ell.
Friday, September 29
Dane returned from Quebec [from a buying trip] with 10 dogs instead of 30. Everyone peeved—Moody + Buckley out until "after dark" with Janet + Eleanor Bennett. No word from Shorty this time. Stuffed peanut butter into me at 3 this morning + thought it funny. Pooche another casualty. Everyone unanimously worried. Other dogs look ill + no one knows, not even blundering Dr. Souther, what's the matter. Two dogs to be dispatched to Lederle Laboratories in New York to be examined + observed. About time some action was taken. We know about as much as we did two weeks ago when the first dog died. Got word that we sail Wednesday next, Oct. 3rd. Cooked to-night + I am liked. What a hell of a job. And I smell lousy. But it will be good-by to all this only too soon. It has been a swell stay—Sleepy by!!
Saturday, September 30
Six girls arrived + I cook for all squaws. Party last night + I was in very bad shape.
Sunday, October 1st
Recovering from Party. Doris, Phil, Paul, Oscar + friend drove up. Nice to see them. Feel like hell but went to Boston, stopping in Durham on way to leave blankets, etc.
Monday, October 2
Stayed in Durham Sunday night instead of going thru to Boston. Swell to be home once more before the long trip. Dearie looking + feeling very much better. Phil at work on bridge, so didn't see him. Left early in morning, 6:30 for Boston in Duke's car + got here 8:15. Taylor + I proceeded to Ruppert + went aboard. Inoculated the 15 dogs from Manitoba amid much gasps on part of audience + on my part also. Tussle. Have charge of these dogs while Taylor is cavorting around countryside. Knocked down 6 crates. Crew + officers pretty nice but terribly busy + not too friendly. I being a dogman perhaps. Eating in wardroom + bunking way forward, port side, four of us in this cabin, two to be together in another. No lights last night + between the lights + hose for the boat deck, people are getting peeved at me for my insistence. Rawson wishes me to help him with his navigation. Great! He is the good lad + one damn fine friend.
Tuesday, Oct. 3rd
Arose late + got breakfast after Mr. Clark chased me out of the galley. I finished crates + rearranged dogs. Taylor reappeared off + on, not having been to Wonalancet yet, but going tomorrow. Worked in chart house + cleaned it up + sorted out charts—awful mess, like rats' den. Dr. Souther came over at 6:30 after I called him to look at dog's eye. It is ok, an old wound. Studied navigation to-night after going ashore to telephone Lan. No lights in bunk room so worked in chart room. Janet Palmer + Eleanor Bennett were up twice today. Nice kids. Janet's apologies accepted many times over.
Wednesday, Oct. 4th
Up too early + have eaten too much of Doris' cooking, but is awfully good + my sweet tooth is being satisfied for once. Dogs in good shape. Hump got bitten through thumb + Mr. Clark very peeved, saying it's our loss if we lose Hump. Ba Humbug, they take themselves too seriously. Studied some navigation but didn't get far because of the people who wish to talk to me or ask questions. Tomorrow no one will be allowed on the boat deck if I can help it. I am getting irked. Taylor left for Wonalancet + they [the dogs] are all mine. Duke, with the truck, took up dog feed. Janet + Eleanor down this morning + Eleanor this afternoon. They brought me cigarettes + soap which I highly appreciate. Bill Nelson was down with his wife. She is quite nice.
Thursday, October 5
Up in time this morning. Finished Doris' cooking + eat almost three helpings of everything at table. I am ashamed of my appetite + feel it can only be due to tapeworm or maybe our helminths, the hookworms. Assisted Perkins + Lindsey transporting food stores from their prospective laboratory to bunkroom. Named dogs. Nero bit Hump [the dog] + he also got a very good bite in his foreleg which I treated with boric acid, licking anything else. Moved into next after bunk room which is larger than the original. Janet + Mrs. Buckley down this morning. Mrs. Buckley sniffed at everything. Tom + Janet down to-night. She is crazy about dogs. Swell letter from Mrs. Brown + one yesterday from the skipper. Find out that he who up to now I thought one of the crew is the captain, Capt. Verleger. I asked him whether he could navigate + whether he was to be the navigator. He pleasantly remarked that he probably would assist in navigation going down. Everyone grumpy at me + curse the dogs. They haven't seen nor heard anything yet. Took bath.
Friday October 6th
Allowed to sleep until 8 this morning. Up three times last night to tie up loose dogs + it made me very mad as I had had a very nice warm bath + my bunk felt so nice + warm. No fights, however, until to-night when there was a good one, much to the horror of the onlookers. Tried to locate six hammocks for Taylor but found Corey has loaded or will load some aboard, so I hope we can get those. But I hate the thought of leaving my Simmons mattress. Lan down + wished me good luck + gave me three dollars. Good Scout, + three dollars means a lot to him right now. Janet + Eleanor Bennet down this morning + Eleanor + Hilda from Salem down this afternoon. Wonder whether they come down to see the dogs! Supplies being loaded up to all hours of the night + everyone working themselves sick. Captain Verleger didn't like my throwing cigarette butts on the floor of the chart room. I'll have to make my peace with him. Picture in Transcript for past two days. Very silly article. Hope Dearie saw it, for such things don't mean much unless she can enjoy them too. That's one of the things about this whole affair. I'll have all the experiences etc. + I'll have to enjoy them myself. But then, perhaps by my telling them + by whatever publicity there may be, she can enjoy them with me. Stewart Smith of Lederle Laboratories aboard + feels sure it is hookworm which has killed dogs. Recommended they be gotten out of Wonalancet as soon as possible + have dogs + men arrive from there sometime tomorrow morning, early I expect.
October 7th, Saturday
Dogs arrived this morning + no room for them on deck so they sit out there in their crates on the wharf in the rain, though still in their crates. Unloaded them all afternoon, which wasn't an easy job. 15 more arrived to-night via express + Stan + I unloaded them + gave them each 2 fishes. Things are an awful mess + it doesn't seem as though there is a place for a dog in the whole dirty ship.
Supper was bad to-night + Clark sore at what I don't know. Admiral aboard deciding who will go + who will not. I hope for the best. The boys are all here + it is good to be with them again. A swell bunch of lads. Barbara + Tony sent me a check for $25.That means a lot + it was great of them to do it. I love them not for that alone but because they are such great scouts. I almost feel I am a hero between the newspaper men, Janet + Eleanor + the rest of the friends + relations.
Sunday October 8th
Still aboard Jacob Ruppert in Boston. When we will get underway remains a problem but it seems likely now that it will be Tuesday morning. Millions of people on board + asking the most crazy + usually the same questions. I was + am getting fed up with this business + yearn to get to sea + on our way. Loaded, without supper, all the dogs to-night up to ten o'clock. Janet + Eleanor brought down a supper + wine which we now just finished. They have all departed + Dane + I, lacking friends + me, shoes, remain to weight down the good ship. Cow arrived + all kinds of fuss + fumes over the stupid creature. We are to have two on board + it will probably be up to the dog depart. to look after it. Wire from Dearie bidding farewell. But Phil won't get down tomorrow. Boat is filthy + dog manure everywhere. Alas.
Monday October 9th
Moody + Dane came in after dark. Cows hoisted aboard. Girls brought down eats. Phil down from Durham to say good-by. He has been taken on by Crandall Construction Co. + will begin driving soon. Getting $5 + $2 for boat per day + as driver will get $2. It strikes me more + more how extraordinary it is that Phil should be supporting Dearie, Phil the money man of the family + I, who was to salvage the worth of the family fortune, volunteering for a two year job in the most God forsaken land on the globe. Stan + I went to movie + had a bath in Rawson's room. Movie was lousy + it poured cats + dogs on my back. Sailing Wednesday, according to the latest dope. I wonder.
Tues + Wed October 10 + 11, 1933
Missed a day. Last night was too tired to write + fell asleep with pencil in my hand. Day of answering questions, chasing visitors off the boat deck, watering + feeding, + talking to the girls, Janet + Eleanor. Drove up + saw Lan + cashed check for $25. Left good-by for Mr. Hall. Wished I could have seen him to say good-by + so long + a mighty hearty thank you for an education + incidentally for this trip, for it was through my attending Yale I came in contact with Ken + the gang. Several men on board asking for dogs which had died at Wonalancet + it was embarrassing several times but we convinced them that they were aboard but were non-findable, the dogs being in their crates.
To-day, 7:30, left Boston at last + got underway for New York + the southern hemisphere. It seems as though we would never get off from Boston, + it was a great relief to leave. Families were there to weep + wave + all tugs + ships gave us a grand tooting on the way out. I got my first feeling of excitement since I arrived at Wonalancet. We were starting upon a voyage 15,000 miles or more long to an unknown continent, practically unknown, + I was a part of it all. It was hard to realize, + I enjoyed the farewell tooting, wishing us bon voyage, good luck, + a safe return. I hope the same.
Middle of afternoon, ship broke down + we drifted for several hours, but trouble repaired + we are at the present moment passing through Nantucket Shoals. The ship does about 8– 10 knots + runs fairly smoothly, though there is quite a bit of vibration up here in our living quarters. Dane + Buckley got quite silly to-night + we all had a round of fire water before dinner. New York tomorrow + a trip out to the Pioneer Instrument Co.
Hooray, we are off + on the sea with the bow gently lifting itself + then sinking slowly with the swells. It is grand + I realize that the sea is a very real part of me. Perhaps I got that from Dad.
Thursday October 12, 1933
Late rising after a good sleep on the briny deep. Sea very smooth + the gentle motion of the ship rocked us all to a swell night's sleep. To-day was perfect. Sunny + fairly warm + smooth. A day which, in New York, I yearned to be on the sea. It did my soul good I am sure. Worked this morning cleaning crates until noon. A difficult + nasty job but which has to be done. Helped bosun Voight getting things shipshape + Dane + I washed down decks.24 Decks actually clean, not like my efforts the other day when practically nothing but oil + tar came out of the hose + the deck was a worse mess than ever before.
Succeeded in squirting Taylor with hose instead of Buck who threw a pail of water over me. But all quiet now + all made up. Be damned if they don't appreciate our efforts keep this old tub clean. I sometimes wish we had a navy man skipper. Things would be different. Clark was telling Captain what to do + when to eat. He should be eaten.
(Continues...)
Excerpted from Footsteps on the Ice by M. L. Paine. Copyright © 2007 M. L. Paine. Excerpted by permission of University of Missouri Press.
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