Foundations of Flat Patterning and Draping: For the Female Form

by Larissa McConnell

Overview

Foundations of Flat Patterning and Draping: For the Female Form provides the foundational tools necessary for success in the techniques of flat patterning and draping clothes and costumes.

This book begins with the basics of taking measurements, preparing the fabric for draping, and preparing the dress form. The following chapters explore flat patterning and draping practices for bodices, skirts, pants, dresses, sleeves, collars, cuffs, and facings through detailed step-by-step instructions, checklists, and numerous diagrams. The bodice drafting instructions in this book, specifically, are a new method that accommodates all bust and cup sizes. There are instructions for small and large cup sizes allowing for a fit that does not gap at the armscye as typically happens with previous patterning methods, and additional sections for bodices and sleeves and how to manipulate them to create alternate looks. The techniques in this book generalize across sizes and shapes making it universally applicable for the student technician, as well as the person the garment is being developed for. Each method of drafting and draping has been class-tested and proven to produce well-fitting garments.

Presented in an accessible format with clear instructions and detailed illustrations, this book is well suited for use as a textbook for the undergraduate college instructor teaching costuming or fashion, as well as for the student or individual learning on their own in theatre, film, or fashion industries.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9780367900984
Publisher:	Taylor & Francis
Publication date:	01/04/2022
Pages:	266
Sales rank:	987,247
Product dimensions:	8.25(w) x 11.00(h) x (d)

About the Author

Larissa McConnell is Continuing Assistant Professor of Costume Design and Technology at Gustavus Adolphus College in Saint Peter, Minnesota. Originally from Buffalo, New York, she earned her B.S. and B.F.A. at the State University of New York at Fredonia and her M.F.A. at the University of Missouri, Kansas City. Larissa has also worked at various theatres around the country, including the Weston Playhouse Theatre in Weston, Vermont; the Alpine Theatre Project in Whitefish, Montana; and both the Chautauqua Theatre Company and the Chautauqua Opera in Chautauqua, New York.

Table of Contents

Preface x

Acknowledgments xi

Introduction: But What is Flat Patterning and Draping? xii

1 Tools Needed 1

Definitions of Terms 3

2 How to take Measurements 6

Measurement Sheet 29

3 Fabric: Definitions for Draping 30

4 Preparing for Draping 32

Blocking the Muslin for Draping a Bodice 34

Preparing the Dress Form 37

Padding Out the Dress Form 38

Taping the Dress Form 42

Draping Checklist 44

5 Skirts 45

How to Drape the Basic Skirt 45

Trueing the Basic Skirt 53

How to Drape a Flared Skirt 57

How to Draft a Basic Skirt 62

How Grainiine Affects the Hang of a Skirt 66

Circular Skirts 67

6 Bodices 69

How to Drape the Basic Bodice 69

Trueing the Basic Bodice 79

How to Drape the Princess Bodice 90

Trueing the Princess Bodice 102

How to Draft the Basic Bodice 107

Larger Bust Cup Size Alterations 115

Side Seam Adjustment 119

7 Manipulating Darts within the Bodice 122

Using the Pivot Method to Move Darts 122

Single Dart Moved: Side Seam Dart to Shoulder Seam 122

Combined Dart: Moving Both the Side Seam Dart and the Waist Dart to the Shoulder Seam 125

Moving the Side Seam Dart to the Waistline 128

Using the Slash Method to Move Darts 131

Moving the Side Seam Dart to the Shoulder Seam 131

Converting Darts to Gathers 134

Princess Seam Lines made from Darts 136

Converting Darts to Seam Lines 136

Princess Line from Shoulder Seam to Waistline 136

Princess Line from Armscye to Waistline 138

8 Dresses 141

How to Drape the Basic Sheath Dress 141

Trueing the Basic Sheath Dress (on the actual dress drape) 156

How to Draft the Basic Sheath Dress 175

9 Pants 182

How to Draft the Basic Pant 182

10 Waistbands 190

How to Draft Waistbands 190

Rectangular Waistband 190

Shaped or Contoured Waistband 191

11 Sleeves 194

How to Draft a Set-in Sleeve 194

Method A 195

Method B 197

Underarm Seam Alterations 199

Method A 199

Method B 200

Creating Alternate Looks with Sleeves 200

Cap Sleeves 201

Short Sleeves 202

Puff Sleeves 202

Bishop Sleeves 208

Leg-of-Mutton Sleeves 210

Circular Sleeves 212

Sleeve A 213

Sieeve B 214

12 Collars 217

How to Draft Collars 217

Types of Collars Determined by the Shape of the Neckline Edge 218

Styles of Collars Determined by the Shape of the Outer Edge 219

Flat Collars 221

Full-Roll Collars 222

Full-Roll Straight Collar 222

Full-Roll Convertible Collar 223

Stand Collar 224

Partial-Roll Collar 225

From the Full-Roll Collar 225

From the Flat Collar 226

13 Cuffs 228

How to Draft Cuffs 228

Single-Button Straight Cuff 229

Shaped Cuffs 229

Additional Flare 230

14 Facings 231

How to Draft Neckline and Armscye Facings 231

What is Needed for a Fitted Facing for the Neckline on a Garment with Sleeves 231

What is Needed for a Shaped Armhole Facing 234

Armscye Facing for a Sleeveless Garment 234

Lowered Neckline All-in-One Facing 236

15 Buttons and Buttonhole Closures 238

Buttons and Buttonhole Closures 238

To Create the Overlap and Underlap 239

Cut-in-one Facing 240

Separate Facing for Opening with Button Overlap 241

Appendix:

Labeling a Pattern 242

Trueing Darts 243

Fraction to Decimal Chart 248

Inches/Centimeters Conversion Chart 249

Additional Resources 250

Index 251