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Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9781573676168 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | Annie's |
| Publication date: | 11/01/2014 |
| Sold by: | Barnes & Noble |
| Format: | eBook |
| Pages: | 50 |
| Sales rank: | 727,823 |
| File size: | 7 MB |
Read an Excerpt
Learn to Tat
By Janette Baker
Annie's
Copyright © 2008 DRGAll rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-57367-616-8
CHAPTER 1
Class 1
The following instructions given for the traditional method of shuttle tatting apply to both left-handed and right-handed people. Use a plastic tatting shuttle to learn the basic techniques of shuttle tatting. Use inherited or special tatting shuttles after mastering the fundamentals of tatting with a plastic shuttle (see photo 1).
The shuttle is held properly by placing the thumb on the bottom, and the index finger on top, lengthwise with the shuttle. Hold approximately 1/3 of the shuttle length (see photo 2).
SHUTTLE WIND
Use colored size 5 thread to wind the shuttle.
Step 1: Begin by pointing the shuttle tip up with the tip pointed left.
Step 2: Pass the thread through the hole in the shank and hold it at the back.
Step 3: Wind the thread up and over toward the back (see photo 3), around to the front, up, and over again, continue winding back to front.
Wind the shuttle to the outside, but not beyond the outside edge. Clip the thread from the ball of thread. When the shuttle is wound, look at the shuttle from the top of the shuttle, the thread is wound counterclockwise, with the thread coming from the bottom right of the shuttle (see photo 4).
This shuttle is wound correctly for the traditional method of tatting; other methods may require the shuttle to be wound differently.
DOUBLE STITCH
The basic element of tatting is the Double Stitch. The Double Stitch is made in 2 steps, 2 half hitches making 1 complete Double Stitch.
The standard stitch order is:
under hitch + over hitch = 1 Double Stitch.
The first half of the Double Stitch, called the under hitch is made by passing the shuttle under the left-hand thread and then over the left-hand thread. The 2nd half of the Double Stitch, called the over hitch is made by passing the shuttle over the left-hand thread and then under the left-hand thread.
The Double Stitch is tatted successfully by relaxing the tension of the left hand when instructed. Relaxing the tension of the left hand allows the left-hand thread to be picked up by the shuttle thread and transferred onto the shuttle thread.
Note: Loosening the left-hand tension at the correct time is a crucial step in tatting the Double Stitch.
DOUBLE STITCH INSTRUCTIONS
Tie the white size 5 thread and the colored shuttle thread together. Leave the white thread attached to the ball and trim the thread tails.
When learning to make the Double Stitch using 2 contrasting colors of thread, the thread is held this way (see photo 5).
Step 1: Thread tails point down, pinch at the knot.
Step 2: Wrap the white thread over the back of fingers of the left the hand.
Step 3: Wind the thread around the little finger 2 or 3 times and bend the little finger to hold the wrapped thread. Adjust the thread until it is comfortable.
Step 4: Hold the shuttle properly, with the thread coming out the back of the shuttle. If the shuttle thread is not coming from the back of the shuttle; pause, review the shuttle wind instructions, and correct it before continuing.
UNDER HITCH
Step 1: Position the shuttle thread by bringing the shuttle toward you and under the shuttle thread, so the shuttle thread is over the back of the fingers (see photo 6).
Step 2: Pass the shuttle under the left-hand thread, let the left-hand thread slip between the shuttle and index finger, and over the left-hand thread.
Step 3: Relax the left hand, which will loosen the tension of the left-hand thread.
Step 4: Keep the left hand relaxed and pull the shuttle thread taut. The white thread will fold over, transferring the white thread on top of the colored shuttle thread (see photo 7).
If the colored thread is on top of the white thread, the left-hand tension was held too tight (see photo 8).
Correct the stitch by using the tip of the shuttle to loosen the stitch; relax the left hand and pull the shuttle out. Hold the shuttle thread taut and bring the fingers of the left hand back into position. The last 2 fingers of the right hand can be used to help transfer the thread and keep the thread taut.
UNDER HITCH REVIEW
(1) Position;
(2) Pass shuttle under, over;
(3) Relax the left hand;
(4) Pull shuttle out.
OVER HITCH
Step 1: Pass the shuttle over the left-hand thread and
Step 2: Under the left-hand thread.
Step 3: Relax the left hand, (the over hitch also transfers onto the shuttle thread) keep the left-hand tension loose allowing the stitch transfer.
Step 4: Pull the shuttle out.
Pushing the shuttle against the left-hand thread, in Step 1, when making the over hitch provides a base to work on and helps to pick up speed when making the Double Stitch.
OVER HITCH REVIEW
(1) Push over;
(2) Shuttle under;
(3) Relax left hand;
(4) Pull shuttle out.
UNDER HITCH + OVER HITCH = 1 DOUBLE STITCH
Both half hitches of the Double Stitch have been demonstrated. Tatting the 2 half hitches in sequence makes 1 complete Double Stitch.
First, tat the under hitch
(1) Position;
(2) Pass shuttle under, over;
(3) Relax;
(4) Pull shuttle out.
Second, tat the over hitch
(1) Push over;
(2) Shuttle under;
(3) Relax;
(4) Pull shuttle out, making 1 complete Double Stitch.
A Double Stitch tatted correctly has a bar across the top of the stitch called a stitch cap, and 2 legs at the bottom (see photo 9).
Double Stitches tatted correctly slide easily along the thread. If the left-hand thread is held taut rather than loose when tatting the 2 half hitches, the bar will be across the bottom of the Double Stitch and 2 arms at the top (see photo 10).
Stitches made in this manner will not pull into a Ring. Tat the Double Stitch with the stitch cap across the top of the stitch. Cover each Double Stitch made with a flat pinch to prevent twisting. Adjust the thread over the back of the hand for comfort, as needed.
Before moving to Class 2, practice tatting Double Stitches until you are very confident in transferring the thread each time and tatting Double Stitches correctly, with stitch caps across the top of the stitch. The practice thread may possibly measure a foot or 2 before completely mastering the Double Stitch. To refill an empty shuttle review the shuttle wind instructions.
CHAPTER 2Class 2
Congratulations on learning to tat the Double Stitch! Next, we will learn to tat a Ring of Double Stitches (see photo 11).
The Double Stitch was taught using 2 contrasting colors of thread to better see the stitch transfer. A Ring of Double Stitches requires a single shuttle thread only. A 2nd thread will not be needed at this time.
RINGS
A Ring of Double Stitches is tatted by wrapping the shuttle thread completely around the fingers of the left hand.
Step 1: Leave a short thread tail, pinch the shuttle thread, wrap the shuttle thread up and over the back of the fingers of the left hand, around and pinch again (see photo 12).
Open the left hand wide, making the Ring space large enough to maneuver the shuttle. Have approximately 5 inches of thread between the pinch and the shuttle.
Step 2: Begin the stitch process with the under hitch; pull the under hitch very close to the pinch, next tat the over hitch (1 Double Stitch). Cover the Double Stitch with a flat pinch. Continue to tat Double Stitches throughout the Ring. To be able to close the Ring, each half hitch within the Ring must be tatted correctly, transferring the left-hand thread onto the shuttle thread.
As the thread from the left hand is picked up and used in the stitch process, the Ring becomes smaller. Enlarge a small Ring by pulling the bottom thread at the pinch (see photo 13).
Pull the bottom thread until the Ring is comfortable and there is enough space to maneuver the shuttle. Rings are enlarged by pulling the bottom thread at the pinch and closed by pulling the shuttle.
Step 3: Close the Ring by holding a flat pinch on both sides of the Ring and pull the shuttle. The Ring closes easily if each half hitch is tatted correctly. Close the Ring completely to prevent a gap. Begin the next Ring by rewrapping the left hand with the shuttle thread. Pause now and practice tatting several Rings.
PICOTS
Picots (pronounced peek-ohs) can be added to a Ring or Chain. There are 2 types of picots: decorative and functional. Decorative picots add a lacey look to the tatting. Functional picots are used to join 2 elements together. The picot is made when a thread length is left between 2 Double Stitches (see photo 14).
The thread length becomes a picot when the Double Stitches are slid into position. This Ring is made with 3 picots (see photo 15).
Step 1: Make a Ring with 3 picots by wrapping the fingers of the left hand with the shuttle thread.
Step 2: Tat 4 Double Stitches, make a picot by pinching ¼-inch beyond the last Double Stitch, forcing the next Double Stitch to be made ¼ inch past the previous Double Stitch, tat a Double Stitch, slide the Double Stitch into position, forming the picot.
Step 3: Tat 3 more Double Stitches, make a picot, again pinch ½ inch past the previous Double Stitch, tat the next Double Stitch, and slide the Double Stitch into position.
Step 4: Tat 3 more Double Stitches, make a picot, and tat 4 more Double Stitches.
Step 5: Close the Ring completely to prevent a gap.
RINGS WITH PICOTS PATTERN
R 4 – 4 – 4 – 4
The above Rings with Picots Pattern reads: Ring of 4 Double Stitches, picot (the dash represents the picot), 4 Double Stitches, picot, 4 Double Stitches, picot, 4 Double Stitches.
The Double Stitch is counted by counting the stitch cap across the top of the stitch. The picots are between the Double Stitches. The picot is simply the thread length between the stitches. Pause now and practice tatting Rings with picots.
JOIN
Functional picots are used to join 2 elements together. The 12 o'clock picot of this Ring is a decorative picot (see photo 16), the 3 o'clock picot is a functional picot. Functional picots are joined into joining 2 Rings close together. The 3 o'clock picot is referred to as, the 3rd picot of the previous Ring, when joining 2 Rings together.
JOIN INSTRUCTIONS
Note: For joining 2 Rings together.
First, tat a Ring with 3 picots following the previous Rings With Picots pattern. Second, leave a short length of thread, approximately ¼-inch between Rings. Third, tat the next Ring by rewrapping the fingers of the left hand with the shuttle thread. Tat 4 Double Stitches.
Step 1: Join the 2 Rings together by bringing the 3rd picot of the precious Ring over on top of the left-hand thread (see photo 18).
Step 2: Insert the shuttle tip down into the picot. Pull a loop of thread up from the left-hand thread. Pull a thread loop large enough to pass the shuttle through the loop (see photo 19).
Step 3: Pass the shuttle through the thread loop and retract the left-hand thread.
Test the join, to ensure the stitches will slide, by pulling the bottom thread. If the join is locked, the shuttle was inserted through a twisted loop. Correct a locked join by pulling the loop up; untwist the loop and reinsert the shuttle through the loop, test the join again to ensure the stitches will slide. Continue by tatting 4 Double Stitches, picot, 4 Double Stitches, picot, 4 Double Stitches. Close the Ring.
ROW OF JOINED RINGS
R 4 – 4 – 4 – 4 UTS
* R 4 + (to 3rd picot of PR) 4 – 4 – 4 UTS
Rep from *.
The abbreviations for the above pattern are; R, represents Ring. The number 4 represents number of Double Stitches to tat. The plus sign represents the join. The dash represents the picot. The PR represents "previous Ring." The UTS represents "unworked thread space," which is the short length of thread between the Rings. Rep represents "repeat."
The pattern reads: Ring of 4 Double Stitches, picot, 4 Double Stitches, picot, 4 Double Stitches, picot, 4 Double Stitches; unworked thread space; Ring of 4 Double Stitches and join — in parentheses we are told which picot to join into — into the 3rd picot of the previous Ring, 4 Double Stitches, picot, 4 Double Stitches, picot, 4 Double Stitches; unworked thread space; repeat from asterisk. Pause now and practice the pattern above to master the techniques taught in this class.
OPENING RINGS
A closed Ring can be opened.
Step 1: Open a closed Ring by spreading the Double Stitches apart at each picot (see photo 20). Loosen between the picots again. If there are no picots in the Ring, loosen between the stitches.
Step 2: Use the shuttle tip to loosen the last half hitch of the Ring. Take out the last half hitch. Loosen the stitches again.
Step 3: When the Ring is loose enough, hold the base of the Ring firm and pull the core thread at the beginning point of the Ring to enlarge the Ring. If there is a mistake within the Ring, take the stitches out past the mistake and rework the Ring (see photo 21).
In this sample we see that small changes can be made on basic patterns. The number of Double Stitches and/or the number of picots can be changed. For example, the number of Double Stitches of the Ring has been changed and picots added to the previous Row of Joined Rings pattern.
R 4 + (to last picot of PR) 2 – 2 – 2 – 2 – 4 UTS Rep.
The pattern now reads, Ring of 4 Double Stitches, join to last picot of previous Ring, 2 Double Stitches, picot, 2 Double Stitches, picot, 2 Double Stitches, picot, 2 Double Stitches, picot and 4 Double Stitches; unworked thread space; repeat.
SINGLE SHUTTLE
DOUBLE-SIDED EDGE
The simplest tatting consists of single shuttle Rings repeated continuous for an edging. The double-sided edge repeats each side with a small length of thread between the Rings, creating a lattice-like effect. Double-sided tatted edges, require a single shuttle thread.
This is a sample of the Easy Edge pattern (see photo 22).
The pattern begins with Ring A, Ring B, Ring C, etc. Reverse work after each Ring. Reverse Ring A, by turning the Ring downward. Tat Ring B. Reverse Ring B, by turning the Ring upward. Tat Ring C, turn Ring downward and so forth. Practice the Easy Edge pattern to master the techniques taught in this class.
THREAD
The result of using a top-quality thread is beauty in the finished product. Choose a tightly twisted, strong, smooth thread. Thread choices range from cottons to polyester. When choosing a thread, consider the wear and tear the tatting will receive. Heirlooms and decorative items such as the butterfly we will make in our next class will receive completely different wear. Hopeful heirlooms should be made of the highest- quality threads.
Patterns indicate the size of the thread to use. Using a different size of thread than indicated will alter the finished dimension. Thread size relates to the thickness of the thread; the higher the size number of the thread, the finer it is. A size 10 would be slightly finer than a size 5. Size 20, is finer than size 10, and so forth. True tatting threads are very fine — size 70 and 80. All sizes thicker than 70 and 80 are referred to as crochet cottons. Tatting made of size 70 and 80 looks very dainty and lacey. Tatting in a size 70 or 80 is a good goal to work toward, but not the best place to start. Tat several articles in size 10, then try tatting with 1 size finer, size 20 and so on (see Figure 1).
CHAPTER 3Class 3
CONSECUTIVE RINGS
Consecutive Rings are each made without reversing the Ring or leaving a short length of thread between the Rings. This small butterfly is made of 4 consecutive Rings (see photo 23).
SMALL BUTTERFLY
Note: This pattern uses 1 shuttle.
Wind the shuttle with size 10 thread and clip the thread from the ball. Follow the alphabetical Ring order of the pattern. The lines on Figure 2 represent the decorative picot placement.
Do not reverse work between Rings.
Ring A: 7 – 2 - - 2 – 7
Ring B: 6 – 6
Ring C: 6 – 6
Ring D: 7 – 2 - - 2 – 7
(Continues...)
Excerpted from Learn to Tat by Janette Baker. Copyright © 2008 DRG. Excerpted by permission of Annie's.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
Table of Contents
Contents
About the Designer,GENERAL INFORMATION,
Abbreviations,
Pattern Styles,
Tatting Overview,
Reference Guide,
BEGINNING TATTING CLASSES,
Introduction,
Class 1:,
Shuttle Wind,
Double Stitch,
Class 2:,
Rings,
Picots,
Join,
Opening Rings,
Single Shuttle,
Thread,
Practice Pattern: Easy Edge,
Class 3:,
Consecutive Rings,
Picot Gauges,
Practice Pattern: Small Butterfly,
Class 4:,
Reverse Work,
Chain,
Practice Pattern: Easy Bookmark,
Practice Pattern: Hankie Edge,
Class 5:,
Knotless Techniques,
Thread Joins,
Correcting Mistakes,
Class 6:,
Double Shuttles,
Practice Pattern: Josephine Ring Edge,
ADVANCED TATTING CLASSES,
Class 7:,
Split Ring,
Practice Pattern: Split Ring Chatelaine,
Class 8:,
Split Chain,
Practice Pattern: Ring & Split Chain,
Class 9:,
Front-side tatting,
TATTING PROJECTS,
Easy Edge,
Small Butterfly,
Heart,
Easy Bookmark,
Hankie Edge,
Daffodil Doily,
Star of David Table Runner,
Josephine Ring Edge,
Beginner's Tat & Crochet Edge,
Stitching Guide,
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