Table of Contents
Part 1 Getting Started
Section 1 Jewelry Metals and Materials 10
Metal Types 12
Metal Forms 12
Other Jewelry Materials 14
Section 2 Tools of the Trade 16
General Hand Tool and Technique Categories 18
Workshop Safety 18
The Jeweler's Dozen 19
Part 2 Working with Metal
Section 1 Preparing Metal 26
Cleaning and Degreasing Metal 28
Measuring and Pattern Layout 29
Jeweler's Dozen Tool 1: B+S Gauge 30
Jeweler's Dozen Tool 2: Millimeter Ruler 31
Exercise 1 Adhering a Pattern to Sheet Metal 32
Section 2 Manipulating Metal 34
Jeweler's Dozen Tool 3: Ring Clamp 36
Jeweler's Dozen Tool 4: Basic Utility Pliers 37
Exercise 2 Bending and Shaping Wire with Pliers 39
Jeweler's Dozen Tool 5: Utility Hammer 43
Jeweler's Dozen Tool 6: Steel Block or Anvil 44
Exercise 3 Texturing Sheet Metal with a Hammer 45
Jeweler's Dozen Tool 7: Center Punch 46
Exercise 4 Predictable Punching 47
Section 3 Severing and Separating Metal 48
Jeweler's Dozen Tool 8: Jeweler's Saw 50
Jeweler's Dozen Tool 9: Bench Pin 52
Exercise 5 Sawing a Practice Pattern 53
Jeweler's Dozen Tool 10: Metal Shears and Wire Cutters 54
Jeweler's Dozen Tool 11: Hole Punch, Hand Drill, or Rotary Tool 56
Exercise 6 Punching and Drilling Holes 57
Exercise 7 Sawing Openings in Sheet Metal 58
Section 4 Filing and Abrading Metal 60
Jeweler's Dozen Tool 12: Basic Hand Files 62
Exercise 8 Filing Wire, Sheet Metal, and Square Rod 64
Bonus Tool Sanding with Abrasive Papers 67
Part 3 Projects
Section 1 Fabrication with Wire 70
Mastering Wire-Wrapped Bead Links 72
Making Jump Rings with a Mandrel 74
Project 1 Easy Wire and Bead Chain 76
Project 2 Hammered Jump Ring and Bead Earrings 80
Project 3 Wild Wire Links Bracelet 84
Section 2 Fabrication with Sheet Metal 90
Project 4 Variable Earrings 92
Project 5 Wonky Copper and Aluminum Necklace 98
Project 6 Saw a Little, Saw a Lot Pendant 102
Part 4 Advanced Projects & Concepts
Section 1 Connections and Attachments 108
Custom Chain Designs 110
Making Handmade Clasps and Findings 114
Project 7 Copper Boxcars Necklace 116
Project 8 Oculus Stone Bead Pendant 120
Project 9 Riveted Bead Rings 124
Section 2 Tools to Take Your Techniques Further 128
Project 10 Domed and Layered Flowers Pendant 130
Dapping Block and Punch Making Curved Forms 132
Project 11 Summer Treasure Riveted Pendant 134
Rivet Hammer: A Double-Duty Tool 136
Project 12 Tabbed Cabochon Pendant 140
Scribe Precise Scores and Folds 142
No-Torch Connections and Captures Gallery 144
Glossary 152
Patterns 154
Resources 157
About the Author 158
Index 159