Pure Ketchup: A History of America's National Condiment With Recipes

by Andrew F. Smith

Overview

For topping French fries or cottage cheese, K rations or school lunches, ketchup has long been an American favorite. In Pure Ketchup, Andrew F. Smith chronicles American milestones in ketchup history, including colonial adaptations of popular British mushroom, anchovy, and walnut ketchups, the rise of tomato-based ketchup, the proliferation of commercial bottling after the Civil War, debates about preservatives, the resurgence of homemade and designer varieties, and a recent challenge from salsa. In addition to the history of ketchup, the book also includes historical recipes.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781611170177
Publisher:	University of South Carolina Press
Publication date:	01/14/2012
Pages:	242
Product dimensions:	6.25(w) x 9.50(h) x 1.00(d)
Age Range:	18 Years

About the Author

Andrew F. Smith teaches culinary history at the New School University in Manhattan and is the author of nineteen books, including Popped Culture: A Social History of Popcorn in America, The Tomato in America: Early History, Culture, and Cookery, and Eating History: Thirty Turning Points in the Making of American Cuisine.

Table of Contents

	Preface	xi
Part I	History
Chapter 1	Introducing Ketchup and Its Polyglot Parentage	3
	Origins	4
	Catchup, Catsup, or Ketchup?	6
	The British	6
Chapter 2	The Rise and Demise of Homemade Ketchup	12
	Mushroom, Fish and Seafood, and Walnut Ketchups	14
	Pickles, Sauces, and Ketchups	16
	Ketchup in Eighteenth-Century America	17
	The Rise of Tomato Ketchup	18
	Ketchup in Nineteenth-Century Britain and America	19
	Reasons for Ketchup's Initial Success	23
	Ketchup Commonalities	25
	Homemade Ketchup's High-water Mark	26
	The Fall of Homemade Ketchup	27
Chapter 3	The Commercialization of Ketchup	33
	Early Tomato Ketchup Manufacturing	34
	The Rapid Expansion of Commercial Ketchup	36
	Manufacturing Ketchup at the Turn of the Century	45
	Commercial Nontomato Ketchups	47
	America's National Condiment	50
Chapter 4	The Quest for Pure Ketchup	59
	Ketchup's Afflictions	60
	Passage of the National Pure Food and Drugs Act	67
	Ketchup Standards and Enforcement Efforts	69
Chapter 5	The Benzoate War	77
	Wiley Opposes Benzoates	78
	Ketchup Experiments	80
	The Antibenzoite Lobby	83
	Probenzoite Forces Strike	90
	Heinz Strikes Back	95
	The Referee Board Decides	97
	Antibenzoite Forces Strike Back	98
	The Denver Convention	105
	The Fight against Benzoates in Indiana	108
	Victors and Vanquished	109
Chapter 6	Ketchup Revolutions	119
	Consolidation in the Ketchup Industry	121
	The Agricultural Revolution	122
	Ketchup Races	123
	Ketchup Manufacturing in the Twentieth Century	126
	The Content Revolution	129
	Bottling and Packaging Revolutions	131
Chapter 7	Ketchup Today and Tomorrow	135
	What Is a Good Ketchup?	136
	Why Is Ketchup So Popular?	138
	Ketchup as a Vegetable	139
	The Return of Homemade Ketchup	140
	Designer Ketchups	141
	The Salsa Challenge	142
	A Business of Global Significance	143
Part II	Historical Ketchup Recipes
	A Note on the Recipes	149
1.	Anchovy Ketchup	151
2.	Apple Ketchup	152
3.	Apricot Ketchup	152
4.	Barberry Ketchup	153
5.	Blackberry Ketchup	153
6.	Camp Ketchup	153
7.	Catsup Cream Dressing	154
8.	Cherry Ketchup	154
9.	Cockle Ketchup	155
10.	Cold Ketchup	155
11.	Compound or Cook's Ketchup	156
12.	Cranberry Ketchup	156
13.	Creole Ketchup	156
14.	Cucumber Ketchup	157
15.	Currant Ketchup	158
16.	Damson Ketchup	159
17.	Elderberry Ketchup	159
18.	English Ketchup	160
19.	Gooseberry Ketchup	161
20.	Grape Ketchup	162
21.	Herring Ketchup	163
22.	Ketchup for Mutton	163
23.	Ketchup to Keep Seven Years	163
24.	Ketchup to Keep Twenty Years	164
25.	Kidney Bean Ketchup	164
26.	Lemon Ketchup	165
27.	Liver Ketchup	165
28.	Lobster Ketchup	167
29.	Mum (or Old Beer) Ketchup	168
30.	Mushroom Ketchup	168
31.	Mussel Ketchup	175
32.	Oyster Ketchup	175
33.	Peach Ketchup	177
34.	Pepper Ketchup	178
35.	Pimento Ketchup	179
36.	Plum Ketchup	179
37.	Pudding Ketchup	180
38.	Raspberry Ketchup	180
39.	Rum Ketchup	181
40.	Sea Ketchup	181
41.	Southern Ketchup	182
42.	Squash Ketchup	182
43.	Sugar Ketchup	182
44.	Tomato Ketchup	183
45.	Tomato Ketchup, Green	190
46.	Tomato Soy	191
47.	Walnut Ketchup	192
48.	White Ketchup	195
49.	Whortleberry Ketchup	195
50.	Wine Ketchup	196
Part III	List of Ketchups
	Commercial Tomato Ketchups	199
	Historical Tomato Ketchups	199
	Recent Tomato Ketchups	219
	Nontomato Ketchups	221
	Historical Nontomato Ketchups	221
	Recent Nontomato Ketchups	222
	Non-American Ketchups	222
	Select Bibliography and Resources	225
	General Works	225
	Works on Canning and Preserving	226
	Works on Ketchup	228
	Reprinted British and American Cookery Books and Manuscripts	230
	Index	233

What People are Saying About This

Karen Hess

Most Americans think that ketchup is an American invention. Most Americans think it was always made of tomatoes. But anyone who wants the real story on ketchup will have to read Pure Ketchup.

Editorial Reviews

If you want to catch up on everything there is to know about America's favorite sauce, then Andy Smith's [book] will be what you are looking for.... Fascinating.

Food History News

The book starts out as a sweeping history—ketchup in the ancient Mediterranean, ketchup evolving with the help of the British Empire—but finds its stride in an amazing variety of fun historical nuggets Smith uncovered about ketchup's evolution.

Associated Press

If you want to catch up on everything there is to know about America's favorite sauce, then Andy Smith's [book] will be what you are looking for.... Fascinating.

-- "Food History News"

The book starts out as a sweeping history--ketchup in the ancient Mediterranean, ketchup evolving with the help of the British Empire--but finds its stride in an amazing variety of fun historical nuggets Smith uncovered about ketchup's evolution.

-- "Associated Press"

From the Publisher