Table of Contents
Introduction For Sewists Like You 8
Chapter 1 Why Sew? 12
What Sewing Can Do for You 15
Your Path to Sewing 17
Chapter 2 What to Sew 20
How to Decide 23
An Authentic Approach to Making Clothes 29
Barbara's Tips 31
Chapter 3 Finding the Right Pattern 34
Clues to a Great Pattern 37
How to Start If You're a Beginner 45
When to Ignore the Pattern Directions 48
Mini-Lesson: Eliminating a Bulky Front Shirt Band 49
Pattern Changes for Sewing Knits 50
Consider Going Patternless 50
Patternless Idea: Hemless Knit Skirt 51
Patternless Idea: Vintage-Style Pleat 53
Patterless Idea: Lined Patch Pocket 55
Patterless Idea: Easy Zippered Pocket 56
Barbara's Tips 58
Chapter 4 If It Fits, They Will Wear It 60
The Truth About Most Pattern Sizing 63
What to Measure, How to Do It, and Why 66
Personal Measurement Chart 76
Assessing the Third Dimension: Crotch Shape 78
Measuring Children 81
Barbara's Tips 82
Chapter 5 Altering a Flat Pattern to Fit 84
Why Learn to Alter a Flat Pattern? 87
How to Know If a Pattern Needs Your Help 88
The First Principles of Pattern Alteration 90
Different Ways of Altering a Pattern 93
Approach 1: The Muslim Method 93
Approach 2: The Simple Side-Seam Additions Method 96
Approach 3: The Block Method 98
Approach 4: The Slash-and-Spread Method 101
Mini-Lesson: Making a Full Bust Alteration 103
Approach 5: The Pivot-and-Slide Method 106
Approach 6: The Seam Method 111
Barbara's Tips 115
Chapter 6 Choosing and Cutting Fabric 116
Which Fabric Will Work for Your Garment? 119
The Backup Fabrics: Interfacing and Lining 131
Pretreating Fabrics 135
Onto the Table: Layout Tips 137
Mini Lesson: Cutting Striped Fabric Single Layer 138
Mini Lesson: How to Match Print Motifs 139
Barbara's Tips 141
Chapter 7 The Gear Side of Sewing 144
A Place to Sew 147
The Big Gear: Sewing Machines and Accessories 153
Mini Lesson: Making A Flat-Felled Seam 162
Mini Lesson: Installing An Invisible Zipper 164
Now What About a New Machine? 167
Do You Need a Serger/Overlocker? 171
Sewing Notions 178
Mini Lesson: Prepare for Topstitching with Fusible Thread 179
Mini Lesson: Faux Binding with Wooly Nylon Thread 181
Barbara's Tips 184
Chapter 8 Mapping Out Your Own Sewing Strategy 190
Rules You Shouldn't Break 193
Mini-Lesson: Easy Thread Marking 198
Mini-Lesson: The Doubled Patch Pocket 204
Sometimes the Best Advice Is Your Own 206
Mini-Lesson: DIY Crossover V-Neckline 210
Mini Lesson: Two DIY Elastic Waist Castings 213
Mini Lesson: Two DIY Knit Necklines 218
Barbara's Tips 223
Chapter 9 Sewing for Joy 226
Sewspeak:
Useful Terms and Tips 232
Resources 251
Sewing Classics
Garment Notes
About the Author 255
