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fusilli with tahini yogurt sauce and nigella seeds
Thick Greek yogurt and whole grain pasta are a perfect match in my food heaven—the creamy yogurt enveloping the pasta in an appealing and comforting blanket, thus lightening its rustic look and feel. This pasta with earthy tahini (sesame butter) and a sprinkling of deeply aromatic nigella seeds is my husband’s favorite and has been on our table for years. Its sauce is spicy, with a good amount of raw garlic (use less only if you must!). And it thrives next to grilled steak, burgers, and lamb chops but is just as good with chicken; or serve it on its own, next to a peppery arugula salad. gluten-free option
Fine sea salt
12 ounces whole grain fusilli, rotelle, or other pasta shells (gluten-free if desired)
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
1 teaspoon nigella seeds (optional; see page 248)
1 or 2 fresh hot red chiles, depending on your preference, seeds and veins removed for less heat
4 cloves garlic, peeled
1 cup plain whole milk or
2% Greek yogurt (do not use nonfat)
1 cup low-fat sour cream
1 ⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons tahini
1 ⁄4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (1 to 2 lemons)
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
1 ⁄4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish
Serves 4 as a main, or 6 as a side
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add salt as you see fit and then the pasta, stirring a few times. Return to a boil with the lid on; uncover and cook at a gentle boil until the pasta is al dente, according to the package directions.
While the water is coming to a boil, add the sesame, cumin, and nigella seeds to a medium skillet over medium heat. Toast, stirring frequently, until the seeds turn fragrant and the sesame becomes golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Immediately scrape the seeds onto a plate.
Cut half of the chile into fine rings and set aside. Add the remaining chile and the garlic to the bowl of a food processor, fitted with the metal blade. Process until minced, scraping down the sides as needed. Add the yogurt and sour cream and blend until creamy. Add the tahini, lemon juice, and salt and process until smooth. Season with salt to taste.
While the pasta is cooking, transfer the sauce to a 12-inch skillet. Gently heat over medium-low, stirring occasionally, until warmed through, about 5 minutes (do not bring to a boil, as the yogurt will curdle).
To finish, dip a heatproof measuring cup into the pasta pot to reserve 3⁄4 cup cooking liquid. Drain the pasta and add it to the skillet with the sauce. Add about half of the reserved liquid. Toss vigorously to combine for 1 to 2 minutes, adding a bit more cooking liquid as needed, until you have a creamy sauce. Sprinkle with the seed mixture, the chile rings, and the parsley. Serve at once.
fine points
If you don’t like the sharpness of fresh red chile, omit it and sprinkle the pasta at the end with a bit of mild Aleppo pepper (see “Sources,” page 251) or sweet paprika.
Make ahead The yogurt tahini sauce can be prepared 1 day ahead; chill, covered.