The Backyard Homestead Seasonal Planner: What to Do & When to Do It in the Garden, Orchard, Barn, Pasture & Equipment Shed

by Ann Larkin Hansen

Overview

This hardworking addition to the best-selling Backyard Homestead series offers expert advice on what tasks to do around your farm and when to do them — no matter where on the planet you call home. Author Ann Larkin Hansen sets the priorities for each area of the farm, including the barn, garden, orchard, field, pasture, and woodlot. For every critical turn of the year (12 in all), Hansen provides an at-a-glance to-do list along with tips and a more in-depth discussion of key topics for the season. Easy-reference charts, checklists, and record-keeping sections help you keep track of it all.

Also available in this series: The Backyard Homestead, The Backyard Homestead Book of Building Projects, The Backyard Homestead Guide to Raising Farm Animals, and The Backyard Homestead Book of Kitchen Know-How.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781612126982
Publisher:	Storey Publishing, LLC
Publication date:	10/03/2017
Series:	Backyard Homestead
Sold by:	Hachette Digital, Inc.
Format:	eBook
Pages:	208
Sales rank:	874,589
File size:	22 MB
Note:	This product may take a few minutes to download.

About the Author

Ann Larkin Hansen is the author of The Backyard Homestead Seasonal Planner, The Organic Farming Manual, The Electric Fencing Handbook, Finding Good Farmland, and Making Hay; coauthor of A Landowner’s Guide to Managing Your Woods with consulting forester Dennis Waterman and master logger Mike Severson; and coauthor with her husband, Steve, of Maintaining Small-Farm Equipment. She has been a journalist for more than 30 years, specializing in organic agriculture and sustainable forestry. A homesteader and a small-scale organic farmer, she lives with her family on a farm in northern Wisconsin. 

Read an Excerpt

CHAPTER 1

Midwinter

Soil is frozen or subject to intermittent freezing. Air temperatures are continually or often below freezing. There is no plant growth. In USDA climate Zones 1–7, the soil is on average frozen in winter; in Zone 8 it's subject to freezing. In Zones 9 and 10, the soil does not normally go below 40°F/4°C, and air temperatures only rarely go below 32°F/0°C, so that these areas can be said to have no real winter.

Midwinter is the season of short days and long nights between the winter solstice and when the first warming trend starts sap moving in the trees — the coldest time of year. The soil is cold or frozen, and nothing grows. Aside from livestock chores and filling the woodbox, there isn't much that needs to get done around the farmyard; it's a traditional time to make and mend tools and pursue other indoor crafts. This is also the traditional time to pour a cup of coffee and do the annual recordkeeping, taxes, and ordering of seeds, supplies, chicks, bees, and equipment parts.

Midwinter is conference season, too, since it's when farmers have some spare time on their hands. Watch for multi-topic conferences on gardening, homesteading, and sustainable farming, as well as workshops on everything from sheep shearing to fruit tree pruning and beekeeping to rotational grazing and direct marketing. Besides the information you gain, these sessions can be a great way to meet other people interested in the same things you are.

The one big outdoor project of the season is woodlot harvests and improvements. This is traditionally the height of the logging season in regions where the ground freezes, though in areas where the ground doesn't freeze, no heavy woods work is done unless the ground is dry, in order to minimize soil compaction and erosion and maximize safety for the workers. Woodlot owners can always find plenty to do: thinning and pruning trees, piling or burning debris, making firewood, and harvesting timber for various purposes.

Seasonal Priorities

Midwinter

FOCUS ON: paperwork • woodlot

DOWNLOAD A PRINTABLE VERSION: BackyardHomesteadSaesonalPlanner-Midwinter.pdf

Garden

» "Read your notes from the past growing season to assess how well the previous year's varieties, rotation, and cover crops performed.

» "Read your notes from the past growing season to assess how well the previous year's varieties, rotation, and cover crops performed.

» "Use your notes to plan this year's crop rotation and cover crop plantings, then order seed.

» "Price and order or purchase soil amendments (based on soil test results) if not applied last fall, for spring application.

» "See more about Midwinter Garden Seasonal Chores

Field

» "Assess how well the previous year's crops performed by going over your notes from the past growing season.

» "Plan this year's crop rotation and cover crop plantings based on your notes from last year, then order seed.

» "Purchase soil amendments (based on soil test results) if not applied last fall, for spring application.

» "See more about Midwinter Field Seasonal Chores

Pasture

» "Order seed for overseeding winter feeding areas in early spring.

» "Work on clearing fence lines of brush and branches if there's little or no snow.

» "See more about Midwinter Pasture Seasonal Chores

Orchard

» "Select and order new trees and pest controls — traps and treatments — if you want them.

» "Sprinkle wood ashes around trees at the dripline.

» "See more about Midwinter Orchard Seasonal Chores

Beeyard

» "Observe hives on warm, sunny days (over 45°F/7°C), looking for bees emerging for "cleansing flights." Do not open hives.

» "Order hives, supplies, and bees for spring delivery.

» "Assemble and paint hives when they arrive.

» "See more about Midwinter Beeyard Seasonal Chores

Barn

» "Check the hay supply: you should have at least half left. If you're short, start looking for more to buy.

» "Check all livestock, and monitor water, salt, mineral, and hay feeders daily.

» "Ultrasound goats and sheep to see how many young they are carrying, if desired.

» "Control rodents.

» "Research where you can buy weaner pigs in spring.

» "See more about Midwinter Barn Seasonal Chores

Coop

» "Order chicks for delivery in early to mid-spring.

» "Check feed, and water hens daily.

» "Let hens outside on nice days.

» "See more about Midwinter Coop Seasonal Chores

Equipment Shed

» "Clean and lubricate any tools and equipment that are in use.

» "See more about Midwinter Equipment Shed Seasonal Chores

Woodlot

» "Harvest timber and do forest improvement work (pruning, thinning, debris cleanup) in regions where the ground is frozen or dry.

» "Burn debris if there is snow on the ground or if the weather is wet.

» "Check over your sugaring equipment if you have sugar maples and plan to tap them.

» "See more about Midwinter Woodlot Seasonal Chores

Wildlife Habitat

» "Research what native plants and animals occupied your acres before settlement.

» "Build birdhouses and bat and wild bee houses.

» "Order native plant seed, food trees, and shrubs for wildlife.

» "See more about Midwinter Wildlife Habitat Seasonal Chores

Midwinter Seasonal Chores

Garden

By this time of year, you should have a nice pile of seed and plant catalogs or have identified some promising seed companies on the Internet. Good catalogs will describe each variety's preferences and tolerances for heat, cold, and drought as well as number of growing days to harvest, growth habit and mature height, disease resistance, and other important details. When deciding which species and varieties to plant, start with the following checklist:

• Choose varieties suited to your climate and length of growing season. For example, summers in the Southeast are blisteringly hot and humid, in the coastal Northwest it's cool and moist, and where I am, in the upper Midwest, the average summer is warm and humid, with a relatively short growing season.

• Look for varieties that are disease resistant if you have persistent disease problems (fusarium wilt is a common one).

• Note how the seed is produced if you have opinions about this. Note whether it is open-pollinated, organic, hybrid, or genetically modified (GM). This is especially important if you plan to save your own seed (for more information, see Deciphering Seed Labels).

• Match perennials with your hardiness zone or provide a microclimate. If a perennial, tree, or bush is rated for a zone warmer than yours, it's probably not going to thrive or survive, though you may have success by utilizing a microclimate: try planting it against a wind-protected south-facing wall and mulching the root zone after the ground freezes in early winter.

If you planted last year, use your notes to plan the details of this year's crop rotation and cover crop plantings. Assess how well the previous year's varieties, rotation, and cover crops performed in terms of:

• Quality and productivity

• Resistance to weed competition, disease, and insect pests

• Ease of harvesting

• Contributions from the roots and aboveground residue to soil protection and health

Deciphering Seed Labels

Open-pollinated. Seed from plants that handled their own breeding naturally in the field. These strains have been stabilized over the years so they "breed true." Seeds that are saved from these strains will produce plants like the parent.

Heirloom. An open-pollinated plant (or domestic livestock breed) that has been bred for specific traits for more than 50 years, especially hardiness and flavor, and is often specifically adapted to a particular region.

Hybrid. The result of crossing two varieties of a single species of plant (or occasionally between two species) in the field. Seed from hybrid plants does not breed true and may be sterile.

Genetically modified organism (GMO). A plant created in the laboratory by inserting genes from one plant into another in a way that would not occur in nature. This technology allows breeders to cross-plant species with unrelated species and even nonplant species. Genetically modified (GM) seed is not generally sold to home gardeners, but it probably will be soon. GM seed is common in commodity crops. GMOs are generally protected by patent, and the seed cannot legally be saved. GMOs are prohibited in organic production. Companies do not have to disclose in their seed descriptions whether their seed is genetically modified.

Cell fusion CMS (cytoplasmic male sterility). A particular method for genetically altering seed, creating a type of GMO. The modified trait is not passed on to the seed's progeny and is therefore allowed in National Organic Program — certified organic seed production.

Treated seed. Seed coated with fungicide and/or pesticide to keep it from rotting if planted when soil moisture or temperature inhibits rapid sprouting. Prohibited in organic production.

CRISPR (clustered regularly interspaced short palindromic repeats). A type of GMO. A cheap, effective, and (mostly) precise method for editing DNA in the laboratory, and therefore a type of genetic modification. The gene modification is permanent and passed on to all future generations. CRISPR seed is expected to be commercially available in the near future, if it isn't already by the time this book is published.

Note: This information is courtesy of Jamie Chevalier, catalog editor, Bountiful Gardens.

What's the Difference between a Garden and a Field?

Though there's no hard-and-fast separation between the two, I think of a garden as supporting a variety of crops for consumption in a relatively small area, while a field grows a single crop at a time (though this can be combined with green manures and cover crops) in a larger area.

Traditionally we tend to think of gardens as producing vegetables, herbs, and (nontree) fruits, and fields as producing grains and forages. But throughout the United States, there is field-scale vegetable growing as well as plenty of grain patches in gardens. Fields, we would posit, are large enough to make mechanized implements essential for efficient production, while a small garden can be managed with hand tools.

Field

Though field crop production is not common on small diversified acreages, it's helpful to understand what your farming neighbors are doing through the year so that you pick up on seasonal indicators. If you do have field crops, now is the time to plan your rotations and order seed.

Field crops are either row crops or nonrow crops. Row crops are grown with enough soil between the rows so plants aren't crowded and you can get machinery through for cultivating (mechanical weeding) and harvesting. Corn, soybeans, cotton, and vegetables, for example, are all grown as row crops. Nonrow crops, most typically small grains (wheat, oats, rye, barley, and the like) and forages (grasses and legumes for hay), are planted as a solid stand, so you can't get equipment in or even walk in the field without treading on the crop. Cultivation is not possible, so weed control depends on other methods. If you're organic, the most important thing is to achieve good weed control in the previous year's crop. (For more about weed control, see here.)

When ordering seed for your fields for the coming season, do an Internet search or ask neighbors to identify seed dealers in your region. Keep in mind the same concerns about varieties and origins as for your garden seeds (see Deciphering Seed Labels). Calculate the amount of seed to order for row crops based on how the plants will be spaced in the row and how much space will be between rows. There are no strict spacing rules for any crop; the goal is to have spacings appropriate for your equipment and the water, sun, and soil nutrient needs of your specific crops without leaving too much room for weeds. Nonrow crop seed amounts are based on the recommended bushels per acre for your location, your soil type(s), and the variety you're planting. If you're combining crops, such as brome grass and alfalfa for a mixed hay, you'll need to decrease the seeding rates for each type of plant.

Row crops are placed at the appropriate soil depth with a planter, while nonrow crops are either broadcast and then lightly tilled or pressed into the soil, or drilled (planted under the surface) with a grain or grass seed drill.

For organic farms, the USDA National Organic Program (NOP) Final Rule requires that at least three different crops be grown over a five-year period, with at least one of those crops being a leguminous green manure. The rotation should utilize both soil-building and erosion-preventing cover crops and mulches. This means your seed order doesn't end with the selected crop variety. Appropriate cover crop seeds will be needed, too, and a plan for when these get planted and tilled under. For example, you could overseed red clover into a stand of field corn when it's 8 inches high and leave the clover there through winter before tilling it under in early spring ahead of planting pumpkins. The possibilities are numerous, given the variety of both crops and covers that can be grown, their different effects on soil nutrient and organic matter levels, when the production crop needs to be planted and harvested, the need for winter soil cover, and to have something that's easy to till under in spring or that will winterkill so you can plant the next crop directly into the cover crop residue. For more on this subject, see here.

Pasture

Pastures are resting at this season. If animals are being outwintered (fed outside through winter) on pasture or hayfield and you're using electric fence around the hay stockpile, check the fence regularly and especially after storms, when ice and heavy snow may have stretched or broken wires. (For more about outwintering livestock, see here.)

On the paperwork side, this is a good time to review last year's rotation paddocks and schedule and to plan any changes or refinements for the coming season (for details, see here). If you noticed areas of poor growth or that the winter feeding area is more mud than grass, then order seed for replanting these areas in spring. Also look over your fencing supplies and order items that are unavailable (or that need to be better quality than what is available) at the local farm store — this applies especially to good electric fence wire, posts, and energizers.

Orchard

If you're starting an orchard, this is the time to research and order trees that are suited to your climate and your personal tastes (see here for details).

Spread wood ashes around the trees at the dripline to add potassium and micronutrients to the soil. If the snow is deep, you can pack it down around the trunk guards to discourage mice from tunneling in to chew the bark. This is also a good time to clean and sharpen pruners, loppers, and chains for the small chain saw, since pruning begins next season.

Beeyard

Hives should be observed but not opened. On the warmest days (above 45°F/7°C), bees should be seen removing dead bees and taking short "cleansing flights" (to eliminate wastes). These activities and a hum from the hive, where the bees are in their winter cluster, indicate health. Dead bees collected around the opening, a weak hum, and a light hive indicate problems. But since the bees sealed the cracks in the hives last fall to protect themselves against drafts, don't open hives; it will chill the bees. Provide food close by if the hive feels light (tilt the hive gently to get a feel for this). Do make plans for addressing any possible problems in spring.

Barn

When you go out each morning to feed and water, look over all livestock (as you should year-round) with an eye to their overall condition and for any signs of distress such as shivering, lameness, or coughing. Animals that are thin, have dull coats, dull eyes, signs of heavy coat licking, or a lack of interest in their feed may be suffering from internal parasites, lice, contagious disease, or an infection and should be diagnosed and treated. Thin animals may simply need a richer diet to deal with cold weather.

At the middle of midwinter, you should have half or more of your hay supply left. If it looks like you're going to be short, buy as soon as possible — supplies dwindle and prices rise as spring approaches.

Cattle, horses, and sheep can be outwintered or kept in a dry lot with a nearby shed for shelter from wind, rain, and heavy snow. Pigs and goats in general do not tolerate cold well and should be well bedded and inside in severe weather, though you may let the goats out on nice days.

(Continues…)

---

Excerpted from "The Backyard Homestead Seasonal Planner"
by .
Copyright © 2017 Ann Larkin Hansen.
Excerpted by permission of Storey Publishing.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

---

Table of Contents

Preface
Introduction: Defining the Seasons
Chapter 1: Midwinter
    Seasonal Chores
    Topic of the Season: Soil Health and Fertility
Chapter 2: Late Winter
    Seasonal Chores
    Topic of the Season: Meeting Plant Needs
Chapter 3: Early Spring
    Seasonal Chores
    Topic of the Season: The Lives of Poultry and Livestock
Chapter 4: Mid-Spring
    Seasonal Chores
    Topic of the Season: Rotational Grazing
Chapter 5: Late Spring
    Seasonal Chores
    Topics of the Season: Cover Crops and Honey Bee Partners
Chapter 6: Early Summer
    Seasonal Chores
    Topic of the Season: Making Hay
Chapter 7: Midsummer
    Seasonal Chores
    Topic of the Season: Caring for an Orchard
Chapter 8: Late Summer
    Seasonal Chores
    Topic of the Season: Tools and Equipment
Chapter 9: Early Fall
    Seasonal Chores
    Topic of the Season: Weed, Pest, and Disease Control
Chapter 10: Mid-Fall
    Seasonal Chores
    Topic of the Season: Managing Your Woods
Chapter 11: Late Fall
    Seasonal Chores
    Topic of the Season: Restoring Biodiversity
Chapter 12: Early Winter
    Seasonal Chores
    Topic of the Season: Quality of Life
Tracking Your Year
Seasonal Priorities: Throughout the Year
Resources
Acknowledgments
Index