The Doable Off-Grid Homestead: Cultivating a Simple Life by Hand . . . on a Budget
192
The Doable Off-Grid Homestead: Cultivating a Simple Life by Hand . . . on a Budget
192eBook
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Overview
Start Your Own Off-Grid Homestead the Simple, Budget-Friendly Way
If you’ve ever thought about creating your own family homestead but weren’t sure how to get started or if it were even possible, Stewart and Shannon Stonger have been there and can help guide your way. They left their home in the city and moved to an empty plot of land with hopes of building a more sustainable way of life. Their years of research, limited budget, creativity and pursuit of their dream produced effective solutions that have taken them step by step to an independent, debt-free and off-grid homestead. In this book, they share how they did it to help others take the first steps in achieving their simple life dreams.
You’ll learn how to build inexpensive infrastructure, harness energy from the sun, manage an off-grid home, grow vegetables in tough conditions, preserve the harvest, build an earthbag root cellar, raise beginner’s livestock and so much more. These attainable, game-changing tips and projects have allowed Stewart and Shannon to live a simpler, more rewarding life with their children. If they can do it, so can you!
Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9781624145391 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | Page Street Publishing |
| Publication date: | 07/03/2018 |
| Sold by: | Macmillan |
| Format: | eBook |
| Pages: | 192 |
| File size: | 139 MB |
| Note: | This product may take a few minutes to download. |
About the Author
Read an Excerpt
CHAPTER 1
Rainwater
As we drove south from Michigan through Missouri, into Kansas and then to Oklahoma, that sinking feeling began to set in. As the miles ticked by, we went from the autumn color burst and lush green grass of October to parched prairie, dead grasslands and eventually bare, cracked earth. It was the drought of 2011 and the further south we went, the bigger that lump in my throat became and the more I wondered what would be waiting for us all the way down in Texas.
Not surprisingly, it was less than idyllic. The earth was exposed and dry, the grass dead and gone. Neighbors spoke of having to sell off livestock, hay prices were through the roof and our land contained almost no topsoil to speak of.
I fast learned, having grown up in the Land of 10,000 Lakes, that without water there is no life. Since then, nearly all of our homestead brainstorming and prioritizing has started with water. Without it, we couldn't live. Without it, we couldn't get a milk animal. Without it, the garden would not survive; we would not survive.
It is critical to life and therefore to that life-breathing act of homesteading.
Catching and Filtering Rainwater
Since moving to the land, our main source of all drinking, washing, animal, garden and orchard water is rainfall. We have no well, not because we wouldn't like one but rather because economically, rainwater makes sense in our dry region. Once the infrastructure of roofline, piping and tanks are bought and paid for, it is as simple as waiting — and often praying — for rain.
Water infrastructure is arguably the most important, and for that reason, we decided to hire out the work of putting up a roofline, a catchwater tank and the gutters before we even moved to our land. It was one of the driest summers in history as we drove south from Michigan to Texas, but just a few days before we arrived, 5 inches (12.7 cm) rained down on the parched earth and our tank was filled and ready for us when we arrived.
To catch rainwater, you need three things in place:
1. A roofline
2. A gutter with piping
3. A rainwater holding tank
We currently use three black tanks totaling 5,500 gallons (20,820 L) of holding capacity. Those tanks, along with our ponds, provide all of the water we use for animals, fruit trees, gardens and ourselves. It is a good start at catching what we might need to carry us through the frequent dry months between rains.
How to Calculate Rainwater Catchment
In our experience in a dryer climate, there really is never such a thing as too much water when it is stored in tanks or utilized on the land properly. We tend to get rainfall in fits and spurts, so it is imperative that when it comes, we are ready and able to catch and store it.
It is not uncommon in our area to see a roofline that seems to have no other purpose than to catch water. But if you have a home, garage, barn or other structure in place, you can set up gutters and a tank and start catching rainwater right away for outdoor or indoor use (see here to here).
There is a simple equation to calculate how much rain you might collect for your roof size that goes something like this:
Gallons of collected rainfall = Roof square footage × (inches of rain × 0.5)
You can also use this equation for what-if scenarios, such as how much roof area you would need to fill a tank with a typical rainfall in your area. This type of planning is essential in the process of developing your rainwater infrastructure.
Cold-Weather Tank Care
One of the biggest dangers that you face with storing water in tanks is freezing weather. Here in central Texas this isn't a problem for too much of the year, but occasionally temperatures dip below freezing and, if you are not prepared, you can lose your piping, gutters or even your tank.
If you are expecting freezing temps and have a Rainwater First-Flush Diverter, you need to make sure it is empty of water so that it doesn't expand and break the pipes apart. Any pipes, hoses or valves connected to your rainwater tanks also need to be protected. The metal valves seem to freeze up faster than the plastic ones in our weather, but if you have a real winter it probably wouldn't make much difference in the end if they were exposed. Insulating all of the plumbing or burying it is something you need to consider, especially if you are in a colder climate.
Tank Considerations
If you've never caught and used rainwater, there are a couple things to think about in this new endeavor.
Tank Placement
Plastic water tanks need a fairly flat and level surface free from rocks that could potentially puncture them. Some people pour a concrete slab to put them on. Consider putting your water tank as high as possible so you can take advantage of gravity in your moving water.
Keeping the Water Clean
Keeping dirt and leaves out of your water tank is the key to keeping it clean. Using a Rainwater First-Flush Diverter can help a lot with this. Other types of gutter guards may also prove helpful. If you ever empty the tank to clean it, make sure you have someone on hand that can help you get in and out in an emergency. Working in enclosed spaces can be dangerous and it is important that there is enough clean air getting inside.
Filtering Rainwater
Filtering our rainwater is a must since it sits stagnant in a tank, often for months at a time. I know there are people who drink it straight from the tank, but to be safe, we recommend putting it through high-quality filters before drinking and cooking. Note that we only filter water for drinking and cooking. Dishes, laundry, handwashing and similar tasks are all done with water straight out of the tank.
There are many water filters on the market, but our favorite — and the favorite of many other homesteaders — is the Berkey. We had one long before we began homesteading for filtering our city or well water. The downside of the Berkey is that the entire setup can be quite expensive due to the stainless steel water containers. The good news is that the critical component of the Berkey is the filter, which you can buy separately. This means you can build whatever size filter housing you want around those filters (see Simple and Inexpensive DIY Water Filter).
Rainwater First-Flush Diverter
A first-flush diverter is simply a way to divert all of the initial rainwater away from the water tank so that dirt and small debris from the roof get washed off a bit before the water goes into the tank. We use a simple system that fills up a 3-inch (7.6cm) PVC pipe with the dirty water. Once this first-flush pipe fills up, a racquet ball floats up to a constriction in the pipe and blocks it off. From that point forward, all the rain goes through a different pipe and into the water tank.
The general principle is fairly simple and can be modified to fit your roofline setup. For example, you may need to add some 45-degree angles so that your pipe reaches a supporting post. A larger roof may need extra capacity and therefore a longer piece of PVC pipe for holding the dirty water. Some people build garden hose valves into the bottom assembly so that they can easily let the first-flush water out. Alternatively, you could put a small hole into the bottom assembly so that water will slowly drip out in between rains.
Estimated Time: 2 to 3 hours
Estimated Cost: Around $40
Tools and Materials
• Tape measure
• Reciprocating saw or handsaw
• 10 feet (3 m) 3-inch (7.6-cm) diameter PVC pipe
• 3-inch (7.6-cm) PVC sanitary tee
• 2 (3 × 1½-inch [7.6 × 3.8-cm]) PVC reducing couplings
• 3-inch (7.6-cm) piece of 1½-inch (3.8-cm) PVC pipe
• 3-inch (7.6-cm) PVC cleanout adapter
• 1 racquetball
• 3-inch (7.6-cm) PVC cleanout plug
• Plumber's strap, if needed
• PVC primer and glue, optional
Note: A word of caution on freezing weather. If the first-flush diverter is filled with water and freezes, it can break apart. If the pieces are not glued together, it may just pop apart and survive. If everything is glued, it may break the pipe. Therefore, keep the diverter empty of water during cold weather or build a self-draining version.
Directions
Cut a 3-inch (7.6-cm) piece of the 3-inch (7.6-cm) PVC pipe to connect the sanitary tee to one of the reducing couplings. Push the 3-inch (7.6-cm) PVC pipe into the sanitary tee.
Connect the reducing couplings with the 3-inch (7.6cm) piece of 1½-inch (3.8-cm) PVC pipe. Push the 1½-inch (3.8-cm) PVC pipe into both of the reducing couplings.
Put the top of the sanitary tee over the bottom of your gutter downspout. Measure the distance from the bottom of the pieces you have assembled to the ground. Subtract 6 inches (15.2 cm, or however many you prefer) from that number so that you have space at the bottom for opening the cleanout to let the first-flush water out. Now cut a piece of the 3inch (7.6-cm) PVC pipe to this length and attach it to the bottom of the reducing coupling.
Attach the cleanout adapter to the bottom of the whole pipe assembly.
Put the racquetball in the 3-inch (7.6-cm) PVC pipe and screw on the cleanout plug.
Figure out a way to secure the whole PVC assembly below the gutter downspout converter. This is usually where the plumber's strap comes in. To make the PVC connections permanent, you may optionally use PVC primer and glue to fuse the pieces together.
You are now done with the actual first-flush diverter. The only thing that remains is connecting the rest of the piping to your water tank.
Simple and Inexpensive DIY Water Filter (aka the Cheap Berkey)
Beyond the filter you choose for your water filter system, there is also the housing, which holds the water to be filtered and the clean water when it is done. You can't do much about the price of the filters themselves, but you can definitely save a lot of money by building your own water filter housing.
When you make the filter housing yourself, you also have a great deal of flexibility in the water capacity of your filter as well as the number of filters you put in it. For example, for two people, you could probably get away with one or two filters and some 5-gallon (19-L) buckets. For a larger family, you may need to add more filters, which is as easy as purchasing more and drilling a few more holes in your containers. You can also choose what size container is best for you within your budget.
Estimated Time: 1 hour (or more if you increase the complexity and size)
Estimated Cost: As low as $25 for a small basic system. Around $120 if you want to start out with two of the highest quality filters. If you choose stainless steel instead of buckets, your price will increase.
Tools and Materials
• 2 (5-gallon [19-L]) food-grade plastic buckets with lids
• Drill
• 5/8-inch (16-mm) drill bit
• 7/8-inch (22-mm) drill bit
• Gravity-fed water filter elements
• 1 water spigot
Directions
Locate places on the bottom of one of the 5-gallon (19-L) buckets where the bottom of the water filters will come through the container. You need to make sure there is enough room around the hole you are going to drill for the plastic nuts that come with the water filter elements to screw on without hitting any small plastic ridges or edges that will prevent a tight seal. Make sure the hole locations are far enough apart that the filters will not hit each other when you install them.
Drill holes in the bottom of the bucket for each water filter element you are going to install. The 5/8-inch (16-mm) drill bit should allow the filter tip to slide completely through.
You will have to drill corresponding holes in the bottom bucket's lid so that the filter elements can drip their water down into the clean-water bucket.
Using the 7/8-inch (22-mm) drill bit, drill a hole in the side of the bottom bucket near the bottom where you want the water spigot to be. You may need to use a different size drill bit depending on your spigot size.
Install the water spigot in the bottom bucket.
Install the water filters in the top bucket. (Note: Some water filters require priming to have optimal water flow. Follow the directions provided by the water filter's manufacturer before installing them in your top container.)
Put the lid on the bottom bucket and place the top bucket on top so that the water filters hang down into the bottom bucket.
Fill the top bucket with water and wait for it to filter into the bottom bucket. Drain the first batch of filtered water and do not drink it if indicated by the filter's manufacturer.
Note: Stainless steel stockpots may be substituted for 5-gallon (19-L) plastic buckets. For water filters, Black Berkey filters are the gold standard. Doulton ATC Super Sterasyl ceramic filters are also very good. You can find cheaper ceramic filters as well. Water spigots often go by various names, such as water cooler spigot, plastic faucet or replacement dispenser spigot valve.
High-Volume DIY Water Filter
We catch rainwater off our various rooflines and have washout diverters on them, but we still end up with enough silt material in our water tanks to clog our filters. Yes, the filters are cleanable, but even with frequent cleanings, there is only so much water you can filter with a 5-gallon (19-L) bucket.
To overcome these issues, we modified a few things on our DIY filter design that proved to be game changers. The first night, the filter overflowed the 10-gallon (38-L) container, which seemed like a positive sign that things were working well. Since it overflowed, we added a few modifications to prevent that going forward. This DIY filter has significantly more filtering capacity and features than the largest Crown Berkey, which retails for around $400.
Estimated Time: 6 hours (including the construction of an elevated tank); 2 hours for just the filter system Estimated Cost: $330
Tools and Materials
• 3 (10-gallon [38-L]) water-storage containers
• Drill
• 5/8-inch (16-mm) drill bit
• 2 stainless steel pizza pans or plastic lids larger than diameter of the 10-gallon (38-L) containers
• 7/8-inch (22-mm) drill bit
• 1 water spigot
• 3 or 4 white ceramic filters with impregnated silver
• 4 Black Berkey water filters
• ½-inch (13-mm) float valve and feed hose, optional
• Ball valve, optional
• ¼-inch (6-mm) Uniseal, optional
• Overflow tubing for the ¼-inch (6-mm) Uniseal that has an outside diameter of inches (8 mm), optional
Directions
Locate places on the bottom of one of your water-storage containers where the bottom of the water filters will come out of the container. You need to make sure, particularly on plastic containers, that there is enough room around the hole you are going to drill for the plastic nuts that come with the water filters to screw on without hitting any small plastic ridges or edges that will prevent a tight seal. Make sure the hole locations are far enough apart that the filters will not hit each other when you install them.
Drill holes in the bottom of the container for each water filter element you are going to install. A 5/8inch (16-mm) drill bit should allow the filter to slide completely through.
You will be placing one water container on top of another in the end, so there has to be something to set the top container on. Drill holes in the pizza pans that match the location of the filters in the container above (so that they fit down through into the container below).
Using the 7/8-inch (22-mm) drill bit, drill a hole in the side of the bottom container near the bottom where you want the water spigot to be. You may need to use a different size drill bit depending on your spigot size.
Install the water spigot on the bottom container.
Install the white ceramic filters in the top container. Install the Black Berkey filters in the middle container.
Note that some water filters require priming to have optimal water flow. Follow the directions provided by the water filters' manufacturer before installing them in your top containers.
If you are going to do the gravity-fed water setup from an elevated tank, you can add a float valve to the top water container. To do this you will need to drill a 7/8- or 1-inch (22- or 25-mm) hole near the top of the container in the side. This hole should correspond to whatever size float valve you purchased. Install the float valve through the wall of the container. Attach the feed hose to it as needed using whatever adapter is required. For example, on mine, I had to go from a ½-inch (13-mm) male pipe thread to a ½-inch (19-mm) male garden hose. Someone at the hardware store should be able to help you locate the right part. You can optionally add a ball valve to the end of your feed hose to give you more control over your incoming water supply.
(Continues…)
Excerpted from "The Doable Off-Grid Homestead"
by .
Copyright © 2018 Stewart and Shannon Stonger.
Excerpted by permission of Page Street Publishing Co..
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
Table of Contents
Title Page,
Copyright Notice,
Dedication,
Introduction,
Part One: Building Infrastructure,
Chapter One: Rainwater,
Chapter Two: Alternative Building,
Chapter Three: Using Solar Energy,
Part Two: Grow Your Own, Make Your Home,
Chapter Four: Land, Soil and Plant,
Chapter Five: In the Barnyard,
Chapter Six: The Off-Grid Home,
Resources,
Acknowledgments,
About the Authors,
Index,
Copyright,