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CHAPTER 1
Digging In
Take Lots of Notes
TIP
With so many variables in the garden, don't expect everything to run precisely like clockwork from one year to the next.
Take Lots of Notes
This is one tip you'll want to start on right from the beginning, even if you don't feel like you have any idea what you're doing yet. Keep track of everything you do so you can refer back to it in future years.
The main things to record are:
• Dates you plant and harvest
• Any unusual weather
• When you added fertilizer or pesticide
• Which sprays did or did not work
But it's the planting dates you want to remember most of all. Focus on that to start with. If you plant your spring peas too late, then they won't be done in time to plant that patch with more summer vegetables. If you get your peppers started too late, they may not be ready to harvest before that first frost. What works (or doesn't work) for you one year can help guide you the next.
Keep track of harvesting too.
Knowing when that big rush of green beans is about to start can be a good heads-up to get your kitchen ready for a big canning session.
Take note of the elements.
Knowing that you have to be ready with the insect sprays by the second week of June in order to protect your tomatoes will keep you on track and your precious plants protected. The same goes for unseasonal weather — extra rain, for example. Expect the unexpected.
Get a spiral notebook or start a simple computer spreadsheet. How you organize your notes is up to you as long as you do it, but keep them consistent. Paper notebooks are a little sturdier and can be stored out in the garden shed where you're more likely to make notes. Pencil won't run in case your notes get wet, which is a pretty good probability at some point. On the other hand, a digital file can make it easier to go searching for something in several years' worth of text and dates.
Know Your Zone
If you don't already know it, you need to find out what growing zone you're in. That single piece of information will be key in figuring out what plants will grow well based on your local climate. People can make a lot of inaccurate assumptions about what will grow in their area and that can mean you miss out on all kinds of delicious fresh produce.
The zones start in the cold north, and the numbers increase as you move southward. Technically, the scale runs from 1 to 20, but most people will find themselves between 4 and 10. The zone designations tend to create bands as you move north to south, but being on the coast or near other features like lakes or mountains will affect your zone.
Once you know your zone, look for it on the seeds you buy to see what will grow for you. Labelling tends to be a certain zone "and up" because plants usually have a cold tolerance level you can't drop below, but the upper heat tolerance is not as important.
Check out some seeds you may not have thought suitable for your area, you might be surprised. Even within one family of plants, there can be variations that are better for one zone over another. Cool-weather varieties may exist that can broaden your choices. Knowing your zone is the first step.
You can take a few chances too. A plant that is fine for Zone 5 and up may still work in your Zone 4 home if you take a little extra care with plant covers and extra mulch layers. But hoping that a tropical Zone 7 will thrive in the cold is not too realistic.
Know Your Zone
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You can find graphic zone maps around on the Internet, but the USDA website is a good place to start
Watch Your Frost Dates
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Oddly enough, some plants get better after a light frost. Kale will get sweeter if the leaves get a frosting before you harvest, for example.
Watch Your Frost Dates
Unless you are enjoying life in a tropical paradise, most people have to watch out for the frosts of winter every year. For many plants, frost is a killer and you should be planning out your entire season around the 2 frost dates. The dates are based on historical averages, so don't consider them 100% guaranteed by any means.
First, there is the date of last frost in the spring. Many folks consider this the starting point for the growing season even though many plants can be planted (or started indoors) before this date. Once the threat of frost is passed, anything can be planted outside safely.
Then you have your first frost date in late fall, roughly marking the end of your growing season. You should keep a close eye on this one, but it's the immediate forecast that matters. If you have some end-of-the-season plants still out in the garden, and they're calling for freezing temperatures, then you'll want to get things picked and harvested right away. On the other hand, if the date has arrived and the forecast is still warm and balmy, just enjoy it and let your plants have a few more days to grow.
If you have vulnerable plants out there and an unexpected frost is predicted, don't despair. A light covering of cloth or plastic can do wonders in protecting your plants if you don't have time to get out there and pick. Also, a frost can be followed by a week or more of frost-free weather. It would be a shame to yank all your plants before necessary.
You can find out your local frost dates by checking with the extension office for your area, or finding a website online with maps.
Why is frost such a problem? Once the temperature drops below freezing at night, the water will freeze in the tissues of your plants. Ice crystals form which then burst the little plant cells, causing all kinds of damage. Some plants can withstand a little frost, some will turn to dead green mush after one single frosty night. Get to know which of your plants handle frost so you don't panic in the cold.
Start with Herbs
With the list of potential fruits and vegetables for your garden being so long, it can be daunting to know where to begin. What's the best place to start for the ultimate gardening novice? Herbs can be the answer. They tend to be very low maintenance, take up little space and will give you an easy harvest of aromatic leaves.
You can grow many herbs indoors in containers, or get an outdoor garden started. Many kitchen herbs are perennials so if you do start growing outside, plan ahead because your plants can be in that spot for many years to come.
A few you might consider trying:
Basil: A staple in many kitchens, it grows very well as long as it gets plenty of sunshine. It's great for flavoring or making homemade pesto.
Oregano: Another good cooking herb, especially if you love Italian cuisine. Like the basil, give your plants lots of sun.
Mint: Mint will grow like a weed, and spread farther than you'd like if you're not careful it's ideal for a large pot. You can use the leaves in cooking, baking or to make tea. Partial shade is best for mint plants.
Lemon balm: You can make some excellent zesty lemon tea with lemon balm leaves, and it grows easily in sun or partial shade. Just pinch out any developing flowers to keep your plant leafy.
Dill: Dill will grow with almost no attention from you whatsoever. It's a fairly tall plant and best left to outdoor growing though. You can harvest the fine leaves or wait for the seed at the end of the season. It needs full sun and can shade other plants nearby.
Chamomile: This is one herb you are harvesting flowers from rather than leaves. They like lots of sun, and you can pick the pretty white flowers to dry for tea later in the summer.
Besides how easy herbs are to grow, the strong scents are good at naturally keeping away the bugs. You'll have few insect pests to deal with in most herb gardens, which means one less headache as you build up your gardening skills.
Start with Herbs
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In the fall, cover your herbs with a layer of mulch if they are outside, and they should be fine to perk back up on their own come spring.
Perennials vs. Annuals
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Not only does a perennial take up more room after a while, it starts to get less productive as the clump grows.
Perennials vs. Annuals
Just a little terminology tip, so you understand better about the kinds of plants you are growing and how they will grow from year to year. For most gardens, you'll be dealing with either annuals or perennials.
Annuals: These are plants that just live one year, produce seed and die. Almost all typical garden vegetables fall into this category, like cucumbers, tomatoes, beans, lettuce, peppers or pumpkins. Some herbs are also annuals, such as basil or chamomile.
One quirk about some annuals, like chamomile for example, is that they reseed themselves so readily that they seem to come up every year like a perennial. In most vegetable cases, you'll be harvesting seeds or fruit, so this kind of self-seeding doesn't happen.
Perennials: Now these are the plants that stay living over the winter, even though their above-ground portions die back, and then naturally re-sprout come spring. Chives, sage and lavender are common herbal perennials. You won't find too many vegetables that are, though. Asparagus and rhubarb are two that will come up again and again for you. Fruits are usually perennials, so strawberries, blueberries and raspberries fall into this category.
Though the idea of plants that don't need replanting each spring is appealing, there is a wee downside to perennials. As each plant continues to grow, year after year, it gets larger. Eventually, it will outgrow its allotted space and require pruning, splitting or other kinds of maintenance.
Biennial: We don't hear about biennial plants all that often, though it's not as rare as you might think. These are plants that will grow for 2 years before flowering and dying. We usually harvest these vegetables after their first year, so the second year doesn't matter that much, unless you are planning on saving seeds. Carrots, cauliflower, turnip, chard and Brussels sprouts are biennials, though most people don't even realize it.
North vs. South
You don't need to be a Civil War buff to understand the nature of the north vs. south conflict in your garden. It's all about sunshine and how to get the most of it.
Unless you live at the equator, the sun will always be on the southern side of the sky as it moves from east to west (though if you are in the southern hemisphere, everything in this tip is opposite). So look to the south for the most sunlight.
For a yard that is relatively flat, the worry about north or south doesn't mean much. Your garden isn't "facing" any direction to begin with. It does make a difference when you have trees or buildings around your space. If your garden is on the north side of the house, it will be shaded a lot more than if it were on the south side.
All of this also applies to indoor gardening, even more so because that window is the only source of light for your plants. Get your plants in south-facing windows as often as you can, unless they are cool-weather plants that prefer much less sun.
The issues with sunlight in east vs. west is also worth considering though the sun moves from one side to the other over the day. That means that any shade you get in the morning will be in full sun by evening.
Don't worry if all this direction talk gets you turned around. For the most part, your garden will do just fine. As we said, a typical level garden doesn't really "face" anywhere. It's about taking note of the sun's position and getting things oriented for the best results.
North vs. South
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Look for slight hills or dips in your land as well, keep your plants on the south-facing side as much as you can to eliminate much shade as you can.
Windowsill Gardening
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If you're determined to have a good crop inside, you might want a few extra lights to supplement your sun.
Windowsill Gardening
Pining for a sunny yard to get your garden going? If you have windows, then you can start working out your green thumb with indoor container gardening.
There are a few important benefits to growing some plants indoors. The main one is that your garden is almost completely protected against pests and bad weather. It can also be a lot nicer to do your chores inside, rather than out in the hot sun.
Ideally, you should have your plants in south-facing windows to get the most light you can. Plants that prefer shade will do fine in any window, or even on a table in the middle of the room. Light that comes in through window glass gets magnified, so a plant can get very hot even though it's indoors. Not all plants need so much heat, so use a small thermometer in your growing areas. If it gets far hotter than outside temperatures would be, you need to block the sun slightly or move your plants a little farther from the window.
Water when the soil is dry to the touch, and make sure you use containers that have good drainage and a tray underneath them. A shot of natural fertilizer or compost a few times throughout the season will keep the nutrients up.
The best plants for gardening in the window are herbs and other leafy vegetables. Basil, mint and thyme will all do very well in any sunny spot. A pot or two of lettuce would give you fresh greens too.
You can try out some larger vegetables, but choose smaller plants whenever possible, particularly dwarf or mini versions. Not only do they take up less space, they will require less light and energy to produce for you. Cherry tomatoes and miniature cucumbers are a couple of great examples.
Do a little research on pollination too. Without the usual host of flies and bees, your plants will not naturally be pollinated, which will mean no fruit. As long as you grow more than one plant, you can do the job yourself with a light paintbrush.
Gardening Toolbox
You shouldn't need a huge shed full of tools to keep your garden going, even though the latest gadgets can be tempting. To get started, you'll want to have the basics.
Spade & Hand Trowel: A good shovel can be your best friend. In the spring, it is a vital tool to turn over soil and remove manure. A hand trowel is better for smaller jobs, like transplanting seedlings.
Rake: For smoothing out soil, spreading mulch or gathering up debris around the garden.
Watering Cans: Even if you plan on using a hose to water with, a good watering can (or two) can be helpful for spot treatments and for when you don't want to drag a length of hose along behind you.
Buckets: A collection of various size buckets will never go amiss in a garden. From hauling water, seedlings, compost, other tools or collecting newly picked vegetables, they will always be in demand.
Hoe: A hoe is ideal for breaking up clumps of soil and hacking down emerging little weedlings.
Spray bottles: Plastic bottles with a trigger spray will come in handy so many times. When you mix up your own insect sprays, you'll need some way to apply them.
Pruning shears: These are good for trimming stems, cutting off dead leaves or to harvest your vegetables with. Scissors aren't going to cut it.
Gloves: Get a sturdy pair of leather gloves that fit you well. Invest in good quality or you'll end up buying new gloves every year.
Gardening Toolbox
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If you've got the budget and a place to store it, then a wheelbarrow will make some of your chores a whole lot easier.
Get a Water Barrel
Some people are blessed with a local climate that brings regular rainfall all summer long and they never have to concern themselves with watering chores. Most gardeners aren't that lucky. To save yourself the hit to your water bill, try to get one or more water barrels working for you.
They are getting to be a common sight around household gardens, especially in the city. You can probably get barrels at any large garden store but you can go with a more DIY approach if you can find access to empty barrels that only had food-grade materials in them before they were emptied. With a commercial barrel, you'll likely get a screened lid and a spigot you can attach a hose to. Both are very useful features.
For a salvaged barrel, you should make a screened lid of your own to keep out egg-laying mosquitoes as well as grass cuttings and loose leaves. Too much debris can really muck up your water.
A typical barrel will be around 50 gallons, and if you have a good-sized roof collecting water, you can actually fill that volume with just one good rain storm. A 40x40 section of flat roof will collect 2 full barrels after just 1 inch of rainfall. If you have space, two or three will really create a good water supply for you. That can mean thousands of gallons of free water for your garden.
Not only does a water barrel system allow you to have an environmentally-friendly water source on hand, the water is actually better for your plants than city tap water. Rain water is free of any chlorine or fluoride treatments, and it will be naturally soft (i.e. free of dissolved minerals that can be a problem with household water).
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Have your barrel set out at the end of your downspout, and you'll start collecting your own Free water the next time it rains.
Watering the Right Way
Though Mother Nature's way of watering already does a pretty good job of keeping your fruits and vegetables healthy and thriving, there are a few little tips you can pick up to make your manual watering more effective for your garden.
When watering your plants, you want to keep the water down at the soil level as much as possible. Waving a hose over all your plants is going to soak the leaves and potentially leave your soil dry.
Not only does it mean your plants' roots aren't getting the water they need, you're creating a damp atmosphere among all your foliage. Yes, that's what happens when it rains anyway, but there is no need to make it worse on purpose. Wet leaves can lead to mildew, and you don't want that. Soaking the leaves also washes away any insecticide treatments you may have used, meaning you'll just have to go out and reapply later.
Point your hose nozzle low and near the ground if you can, or get one of those handy long attachments to help save your back. When watering by hand, get a watering can with a long spout for the same reason. Get under the leaves and pour directly to the soil.
Rain water is the best for your plants, so a water barrel or two can help you keep a supply of that on hand. Rural tap water is also fine but if you have a chlorinated municipal water supply, then you might want to take an extra step to keep the chemicals out of your soil.
With a large garden, this may not be practical though and that would be OK too. It's a step you can take as long as it works for you.
(Continues…)
Excerpted from "The Starter Garden Handbook"
by .
Copyright © 2018 Alice Mary Alvrez.
Excerpted by permission of Mango Media, Inc..
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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