Read an Excerpt
TWO ITEMS: INTRODUCTION AND PASSAGE #24, RED HILLS
INTRODUCTION: The Arizona National Scenic Trail
Arizona evokes images of breathtaking landscapes, exotic animals, star-filled skies, and dramatic sunsets. Even for those who have never traveled through this wild part of the West, the very concept of the place is filled with mystery, beauty, and allure. Glancing at a map of the state reveals an abundance of National Forests, National Parks, American Indian reservations, and huge tracts of land free of roads, cities, or any semi-permanent footprint of modern society. From rolling grasslands and lush Sonoran Desert to alpine peaks and one of the world’s deepest canyons, it is a land of biodiversity unlike anywhere else on Earth. This is Arizona.
And through its wild heart runs a single trail – an 800+ mile path from Mexico to Utah that connects mountains, deserts, forests, canyons, rivers, communities and people. This is the Arizona National Scenic Trail.
One of only 11 National Scenic Trails in the country, and only the third to be completed, the Arizona Trail beckons the adventurous at heart to explore the more remote and unknown regions of the state, in addition to enjoying the Grand Canyon, Saguaro National Park, and other famous natural wonders.
The Arizona National Scenic Trail welcomes all non-motorized forms of locomotion, and the diversity of trail users is one of the many phenomena that make it unique. Hikers, runners and backpackers are just as common as mountain bikers and equestrians, and trail conflicts between these groups are almost unheard of. After all, they worked side-by-side to build the trail. At seasonal trail maintenance events you’re just as likely to see folks in convertible pants and sun hats as lycra and helmets or cowboy hats and Carhartts. They help define the Arizona Trail.
Just because there is a trail through the entire state does not mean it’s easily accessible. While trailheads and signs exist, the Arizona Trail experience is intended to be a remote and personal encounter with Nature on its own terms. Unlike other long-distance trails, you will go days without seeing humans, and many miles between resupply services. In fact, you might just forget that “civilization” even exists. Trail signs can be found, but relying on them as a primary means of navigation is foolhardy. And then there’s the lack of water in the dry Southwest, making a crossing of Arizona a very serious endeavor.
For anyone interested in getting to know the Grand Canyon State a little more intimately, we’ve created this resource – the Complete Guide to the Arizona National Scenic Trail. Whether you plan to attempt the entire state in one crossing, or like most trail enthusiasts, will spend the next decade section-hiking (or biking or horseback riding) the trail one passage at a time, this book will help you plan and navigate appropriately, and hopefully inform, entertain and inspire you, too.
Within these pages you’ll find detailed information to get you to trailheads and water sources as well as on-the-trail directions. You’ll find profiles on Gateway Communities, the small towns located near the trail where basic supplies (like ibuprofen and peanut butter) and services (Mexican food and massage, for instance) can be found. Gateway Communities make great weekend destinations for your one-day and overnight Arizona Trail adventures. We’ve also included information about Arizona’s geology and botany. The more you get to know about the forces that shaped this wild landscape and the organisms that have adapted to live here, the more you’ll become enamored with Arizona.
We hope you enjoy the Arizona National Scenic Trail. And in the words of the late great Edward Abbey, “May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view…where storms come and go as lightning clangs upon the high crags, where something strange and more beautiful and more full of wonder than your deepest dreams waits for you.”
PASSAGE 24: Red Hills--The Park to East Verde River
Total Distance: 14 miles
Difficulty: Moderate
Land Managers: Tonto National Forest, Payson Ranger District
Recommended Months: March through November
OVERVIEW
The AZT’s longest stretch entirely within designated wilderness areas continues as the trail bends even deeper into this pristine, remote landscape. Thru-hikers will lose much of the elevation they gained over the last few passages as the trail drops into the valley of the East Verde River. The elevation ranges from 6,284 ft. on Knob Mountain to 3,277 ft. at the passage’s terminus near the river.
This elevation change offers the opportunity to see a variety of Arizona’s biotic communities, from majestic stands of ponderosa pines to a lush riparian zone whose denizens include turtles and rare birds. The flora is so thick in places that it obscures the trail, so you’ll want to wear protective clothing.
MOUNTAIN BIKE NOTES
Bikes are not allowed on this passage which lies entirely within the Mazatzal Wilderness.
BEGINNING ACCESS POINT
The Park, junction of Mazatzal Divide Trail (#23) and North Peak Trail (#24), via Mineral Creek Trailhead: About 9 miles south of Payson on AZ 87 (north end of Rye) turn west onto FR414 and continue 9 miles to the Mineral Creek Trailhead. From here, hike 3.5 miles on the North Peak Trail (#24), with 2,500 feet of elevation gain to reach The Park.
ENDING ACCESS POINT
East Verde River (LF Ranch), via Doll Baby Trailhead: From the town of Payson at the intersection of AZ 87 and Main Street; take Main Street west for 2 miles, which turns into Country Club Drive. Near the end of Country Club Drive, the road passes a sanitation plant, crosses a creek and continues on paved road for another 6 miles. This newly paved road is referred to as Doll Baby Ranch Rd. or LF Ranch Rd. depending on which map is being used. At this point it becomes a dirt doubletrack (FR406). Continue on FR406 for approximately 3 miles, passing City Creek Trailhad and Doll Baby Ranch, eventually arriving at the locked gate. This is the Doll Baby Trailhead; parking and camping are allowed.
From the trailhead, walk around the gate and hike on the doubletrack for 3.9 miles. The road will wind around the hills and eventually level out in the valley near the ranch. The AZT will intersect the road from the west as a faint singletrack.
TRAIL DESCRIPTION
Starting from The Park at the junction with the North Peak Trail (#24) head north on the Mazatzal Divide Trail (#23), the route of the AZT. You’ll soon bend northwest and climb to 6,170 ft., then descend to cross two tributary canyons of City Creek before turning back to the northeast and climbing again. From a high point on indistinct Knob Mountain (6,284 ft.), you can look northeast for a clear view of the Mogollon Rim, the geographical dividing line between Arizona’s lower-elevation southern half and the cooler, higher elevations to the north. Thru-hikers will be climbing onto the rim within a few days.
Soon you will reach an important trail intersection; this is where the AZT departs from the Mazatzal Divide Trail (#23). The AZT goes left (west) on a combination of trails; Red Hills Trail (# 262); Brush Trail (# 249); and Bull Spring Trail (#34) while the Mazatzal Divide Trail (#23) makes a hard right turn and heads northeast down to the City Creek TH. Continuing on the AZT and a few quick switchbacks, the trail turns left at a cairn-marked junction, descends to the west along a small drainage, and passes through an idyllic pine forest. In the springtime, water is often present. In a confluence of drainages, follow large cairns as the trail turns left and makes a few steep climbs to the southwest, then levels just before a trail intersection. Stay right (west) onto the Brush Trail. As the trail descends to the west and northwest, it then turns northeast along a drainage with nice views of the East Verde River Valley. The trail drops sharply on a rocky, red path. Thick vegetation occasionally obscures the trail, but cairns show the way.
The trail reaches a sign for the usually dry Brush Spring, which is about 50 yards to the northwest. There is a slightly overused place to camp here, the last site for 5 miles. From this sign, the trail bends right (east) to go upstream along an adjoining drainage. In 0.1 miles, the AZT climbs northwest out of the drainage and follows switchbacks along a swath cut through thick vegetation to reach the top of a steep hill. A brief descent leads through heavy brush as it crosses a fence in a saddle and climbs northerly 0.1 miles to an important but obscure trail junction. Make a sharp left (southwest) and climb a bit more. After wrapping around to the right, you’ll top out in a saddle before beginning a steep descent, from which you can see the East Verde River in the valley bottom. You are now on the grounds of the historic LF Ranch; still an active ranch with hiker-friendly facilities, including a bunk house and shower.
To exit the wilderness and AZT, take the road 3.8 miles to the east to the Doll Baby Trailhead.
If you plan to continue along the AZT, head northeast on this road, walk 70 yards, and look for a sign on the right for the next passage of the AZT. The East Verde River awaits you and your water bottles.
