Table of Contents
Introduction 7
Feature: Dandy Wellington 10
Preparing Materials 11
Choosing' Materials 13
Identifying Fiber Content 16
Anatomy of the Cloth 21
Preparing the Fabric 24
Cutting Out 26
Thread Marking 30
Precision Tip: Drawing Threads 33
Pinning 34
Piecing Is Period 36
Feature: Claudia Vogt 37
The Stitches 39
Sewing That Stands the Test of Time 40
Essential Tools 40
Nice-to-Have Tools 47
Starting and Finishing the Thread 49
Stitches to Know 55
Running Stitch 55
Basting 56
Backstitch 59
Half Backstitch 60
Combination Stitch 61
Whipstitch 63
Herringbone Stitch 66
Pad Stitching 69
Feature: Yang Cheon Shik 72
Applications 73
Finishing the Edges 75
Pinking 76
Overcasting 79
Binding 80
Turn and Fell 85
Counter Hems 90
French Seams 93
A Matter of Pressing Importance 94
Closures 97
Buttonhole Stitch 99
Buttonholes 100
Button Loops 104
Making Buttons from Your Fabric 107
Eyelets 111
Lacing Patterns 115
Hooks & Eyes 119
A Little Something Special 124
Pleats 124
Gathers 128
Lace Insertion 135
Pin fucks 141
Smocking 145
Feature: Sophia Khan 148
Practical Alterations 149
Rehemming 150
Adding Gussets to Sleeves 154
Adding Pockets 161
Feature: Embry Whitmore 170
Care and Feeding Making Clothes Last 171
Prevention 173
Mending 175
Darning 176
Patching 180
Reattaching Buttons 183
Conclusion 189
Glossary 190
End Notes 192
Bibliography 194
Acknowledgments 195
About the Author 196
Index 197