Table of Contents
Introduction 7
Why We Wrote This Book 7
How to Use This Book 8
Historic Stitches and How to Sew Them 10
Running Stitch 10
Backstitch 10
Running Backstitch 10
Prick Stitch 10
Hem Stitch with Basting 11
Narrow Hem 11
Edge Stitch / Edge Hem Stitch 11
Milliner's Figure 8 Stitch 11
Blanket Stitch 12
Applique Stitch 12
Whipstitch 12
Whip Gather 12
Stroked Gathers 12
The English Stitch 13
Mantua Maker's Seam 13
Hair Textures and Types 13
Part 1 Preparing Your Toilette 16
What the Heck Is Pomatum? 18
Common Pomatum Recipe 20
Hard Pomatum Recipe 22
Mareschal Pomatum Recipe 24
Hair Powder-The Original Dry Shampoo 26
White Hair Powder 28
Mareschal Powder Recipe 30
Papillote Papers 31
Peignoir 33
How to Pomade and Powder Your Hair 36
Wigs, Hairpieces and Women 39
Extensions-Chignon 40
Extensions-Toupee 41
Extensions-Buckles 45
De-Clowning Eighteenth-Century Makeup 49
Liquid Rouge 50
Red Lip Salve 52
Part 2 Up, Up and Away! 54
1750s-1770 Coiffure Française 57
Coiffure Française Hairstyle 59
Coëffure de Dentelles Cap 63
Make-Your-Own Lace Lappets 67
1765-1772 Coiffure Banane 71
Banana Hair Cushion 73
Coiffure Banane Hairstyle 75
"Proto-Pouf" 81
Trimmed Bergere Straw Hat 87
1772-1775 Coiffure Beignet 93
Giant Donut Hair Cushion 95
Coiffure Beignet Hairstyle 97
French Night Cap 103
1770s Calash Bonnet 109
1776-1779 Coiffure Ski Alpin 117
Ski Slope Hair Cushion 119
Coiffure Ski Alpin Hairstyle 123
1770s Pouf 127
Ostri-rageous DIY Plumes 132
Early 1780s Coiffure Chenille 137
"Grub" Hair Cushion 139
Coiffure Chenille Hairstyle 141
Toque 145
1780s Therese 149
Part 3 Let's Get Frizzical, Frizzical! 152
Which Frizz Is Right for You? 153
1780-1783 Coiffure Friseur 155
A Word on African Hair in Eighteenth-Century Europe and the Colonies 156
Crape Expectations: How to Crape Your Hair 159
Spearhead Hair Cushion 163
Coiffure Friseur Hairstyle 165
"Bonnet à la Jeannot" Cap 171
1780s Black Silk Bonnet 177
1785-1790 Coiffure Américaine Duchesse 183
Tootsie Roller Hair Cushion 185
Coiffure Américaine Duchesse Hairstyle 187
"Bonnet à hi Méduse" Cap 193
4-Loop Bows 198
A Refashioned 1780s Gainsborough Hat 200
5-Loop Bows 206
1790-1784 Coiffure Révolution 209
How to Papillote Curl Your Hair 210
Early 1790s Coiffure Révolution Hairstyle 213
1790s Chiffonet 217
Epilogue 221
Post 1795 … The End of Hair Powder 221
How to Get All This Stuff Out of Your Hair 221
Endnotes 222
Art Works Cited 229
Bibliography 232
Supplier List 234
Models 234
Biographies 235
Acknowledgments 236
Index 237